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It doesn’t matter that we saw it coming. This one is worth a second and third look.
Omega has been on a tear with what I would call a series of the “worst-kept secrets in watches.” This was kicked off by the white Omega Speedmaster, furthered by the black aluminum Seamaster Diver 300m, and then punctuated by a watch “surprise” launched this morning: a new, full-bronze-gold Omega Seamaster Diver 300m. All of these watches have one thing in common: They were each teased (read, spoiled) by former James Bond actor and Omega ambassador Daniel Craig as he wore them out in the world ahead of launch. I, for one, am not too perturbed by this sequence of events. I tend to think that there is no such thing as a spoiled surprise. As a friend of mine once told me, you don’t really spoil a surprise; you merely surprise someone earlier.
So let’s examine a new watch that feels like it’s been in our lives for months now – because it has. This one takes its design from from the No Time To Die Seamaster Diver 300m both in look and material. We have the mesh bracelet working against the well known SMP300 case design.
Additionally, we have an aluminum bezel insert in a burgundy color which pairs with what appears to be a matte textured black dial, which Omega calls sandblasted. This is an effect I want to see in person. The NTTD dial was a more brownish hue and almost smooth, and the recent black-dial version brought the updated small wave pattern. So this is effectively a new dial texture for the format. Finishing off the dial is text done in a brown coloration.
But enough burying the lede: this is a release centered around Bronze Gold – Omega’s proprietary alloy, utilizing a mix of 37.5% 9k gold with palladium and silver. According to the brand, “the material offers incomparable corrosion resistance without verdigris-oxidation, therefore aging slowly and retaining its natural and beautiful patina over a longer period of time.”
This watch comes in two configurations, both in Bronze Gold. One comes on a rubber strap, but the more important development is the option fitted to a matching BG mesh bracelet. To my understanding, this is the first time Omega has made a full bracelet from this material, and it looks mighty sharp.
Those who have found Bronze Gold to be an approachable entry-point to a precious metal might have some sticker shock at the $27,900 price tag of the watch on-bracelet. The strap version does clock in at $13,900, however. Both models utilize the METAS-certified Caliber 8806.
Overall, from a pure aesthetic perspective, I find this watch to be an attractive addition to the SMP300 collection. However, another part of me feels that the line is beginning to exhibit some Speedmaster-esque bloat. There are a lot of options that get confusing when you start to think about them. You can choose between aluminum or ceramic bezels, aluminum or ceramic dials, steel, titanium, two kinds of gold, Bronze Gold, ceramic, rubber straps, NATO straps, original bracelets and mesh bracelets. It’s like the most complicated car build. In the end, options are probably good in the sense that there’s an SMP for everyone. I just prefer to see something a bit more focused.
As far as this Craig-spoiled Seamaster goes? Count me fully in on it, and I can’t wait to see it in person and report back on my hands-on impressions.
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