Sinn 556 I Review

Founded in 1961, Frankfurt, Germany-based Sinn is one of those watch brands that has a rich history to back it up, and continues to produce well-thought-out and reasonably priced watches, but has yet to be catapulted into the watch enthusiast spotlight that other brands have achieved. This, in my opinion, is something of a shame, but the hipster in me also likes to think that its lack of over-hype is also one of the brand’s strengths. While we over here at the Teddy team have given lots of (well-deserved) attention to the Sinn 104 ST, today, I’m going to give some more love to another equally deserving piece within the brand’s contemporary catalog: the Sinn 556 I. 

One could argue that a no-nonsense black-dial watch is a dime a dozen. Pretty much every brand under the sun has one, if not several, to choose from. But unpacking and picking apart what immediately looks to be simple is a watch journalist's bread and butter after all, so it is quite literally my job to get down to the nitty gritty of the unique ways in which the Sinn 556 I is compelling, and, for those in the market, to break down the reasons why (or why not) it should be on your list of watches to consider. I will also argue that simplicity is often the easiest design element to mess up. How many times has one watch been thrown off by too much unnecessary text and branding, a date window that breaks up the dial’s overall harmony, or those little details that people free from watch obsession would easily brush off? It’s something that does not go amiss to our kind, and happens more often than not. 

Though many of Sinn’s models pay tribute to its own aeronautical roots, given that Sinn was originally founded by a German flight instructor, the 556 is among the brand’s least explicitly pilot watch-inspired collections (like the aforementioned 104), though the brand does tie much of its design codes back to some of its cockpit clocks. The 556 I largely does this through its staunch legibility and minimalist design ethos – it’s an "everything you need and nothing you don’t" sort of approach. This emphasis on sparseness leads to a piece that can be worn just about anywhere and with just about anything, especially paired with impressive 200 meters of water resistance. In my mind, it’s a watch you don’t really have to think much about before slapping it on your wrist, which, for those with choice paralysis like me, is a huge win. 

Sinn 556 I Case And Bracelet 

The Sinn 556 I just happens to fall in my personal watch-size sweet spot. Typically, my eyes begin to glaze over once I encounter diameter sizes over 40mm (though I have been pleasantly surprised in the past), so the 38.5mm diameter is enough to inspire a sigh of relief from your dear writer. That being said, the profile of this watch is 11mm thick, but given that it is water resistant to 200 meters with that screw down crown, I’ll let that extra real estate slide. And while we’re on the subject of that screw-down crown, I will say that it is, along with the crown guards, somewhat pronounced. If you are sensitive to this, it is definitely something to be aware of, but I think that, given the case proportions, it isn’t too much of a deal breaker. As always, I’d recommend trying on this piece before you spend your hard-earned cash on it. 

Another detail I am really drawn to in the case of the Sinn 556 I is the finishing. The steel of the case is satin-finished, which helps minimize the appearance of scratches, especially compared to watches with a more highly polished finish. This is a huge "pro" if you plan on actually taking on the sporty utility that this watch offers. The drilled lugs on the Sinn 556 I have a width of 20mm, and make the watch reminiscent of vintage field watches for me, especially when paired with some sort of a strap. Personally, I prefer this model paired with the H-link bracelet, which feels a bit more archetypically sporty, and I really like the way they’ve made the bracelet flow seamlessly from the case for that integrated-bracelet look and feel. The clasp on the bracelet does leave something to be desired: it scratches a bit easily, and is a bit chunky with that diver's extension, but to me, the overall look of the bracelet with the watch is worth a bit of compromise on the clasp, though I think the brand can do a bit better. 

Sinn 556 I Dial 

As I’ve alluded to already, the dial layout of the Sinn 556 I goes for minimalism, and I would say it achieves that well. It’s sparse, streamlined, and to the point, and I appreciate in particular that the brand has gone with only the bare essentials in terms of any text or script on the dial. Especially with watches that are in the sporty-yet-elegant sphere, it really irks me when there are extra lines of text or symbols cluttering up a dial. In this case, the only words you’ll find on the dial are the simple “Sinn” logo, the “automatik” script above six o’clock, and the tiny “Made in Germany” text nestled around six o’clock just above the minutes track. 

Another detail I appreciate about this watch is that the date window at 3 o’clock is, thankfully, color-matched to the dial. This is often a pet peeve I have with date windows writ large, and I think why many people fall into the anti-date-complication camp. When the date window is completely different or contrasting from the dial, it often just looks cheap to me, though that isn’t a steadfast rule. It’s a small touch, but I also appreciate that the typography within the date window itself has some mid-century modern flair, which aligns with the brand’s own history. 

There are several colorways that Sinn has released of similar 556 models, including a limited-edition red gradient dial made with WatchTime magazine, and another with a sunray blue finish, but for me, the glossy black dial of this model is the winner (even though I do like the aquamarine blue take on the 556 that’s in the brand’s design archive). Paired with the satinized finish of the case, the slight sheen of the black dial just looks fantastic, and I don’t think I would like this watch nearly as much if the dial had a sunray or fully matte finish. 

Though there are other 556 models that have applied indices, I prefer that the rectangular hour makers are flat and luminous in this instance, much for the same reason I like the dial. It pairs with the minutes track and luminous sword hands nicely, and carries home the emphasis on minimal elegance that this watch does so well. Additionally, sapphire crystal protects the dial, which has received a double AR coating to help reduce glare and allow the dial to pop.

The Movement

As we likely guessed from the “Automatik” script right on the dial, the Sinn 556 I is, in fact, powered by a mechanical automatic movement. Specifically, we’re talking about the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. This is a 26-jeweled movement with a 4 Hz frequency and a 41-hour power reserve, and I think it would be fair to call the SW200-1 a workhorse of a movement. A huge win for mechanical movement heads out there, the Sinn 556 I does have a sapphire crystal exhibition style caseback, so you’re free to watch it in action and admire all the mechanical inner workings at play. 

Final Thoughts 

While the market for sporty, elegant black dial watches is vast, in my opinion, the Sinn 556 I nails the combination of high-impact simplicity with surprising tool-oriented specs that make it a worthy contender within the landscape. It’s versatile in nearly every sense of the word, from its potential for styling (I mean, this thing looks great with just about any strap you throw on it) to its water-resistant capabilities, and really packs a punch in terms of value for price ($1,380 on strap and $1,830 on quick-adjust bracelet). Though I think having a one-and-done watch collection is largely a myth, the Sinn 556 I has the potential to do just that for those with self-restraint. In particular, I think it's a great option for those either beginning a more serious watch collection or looking to fill a gap in one with a watch that’s no muss and definitely no fuss.