The New Leica ZM 12 In 39mm Proves The Brand Isn't Just Great At Cameras

Leica is returning to its ZM collection this week, following up on the 41mm watch that the famed camera maker first released in 2023 with a new 39mm configuration. The same retro vibes persist — with an integrated, flat-link bracelet and a horizontal dial texture that looks straight out of the ‘90s in the best way possible. This is the new ZM 12, and it looks to bring Leica’s idea of a watch to a new audience at a more approachable size, with plenty of material and strap options in tow. It remains a wholly unique watch, carving out its own genre in a manner commensurate with the German company’s history. 

The history of Leica actually dovetails with watchmaking in more ways than you might realize. The small mechanics at work under the hood of a camera carry similar engineering challenges that face watchmakers, and it’s an art that the brand’s founder and namesake, Ernst Leitz, studied closely. The idea of a Leica watch, therefore, feels quite natural. The brand has a strong aesthetic identity, with form largely following function, and it’s an ethos that’s been carried over to Leica’s idea of a watch, but not exactly in the manner you might expect.

The new ZM 12, like the ZM 11 before it, features a dual-layered, horizontally textured dial that results in a highly dynamic view through the crystal, changing with the angle and lighting. There are four new references being launched, in steel and titanium, each using a proprietary interchangeable strap system that allows the use of a bracelet, handcrafted fabric straps, or a rubber strap. Each is fit to an extension of the case, like a fixed link, meaning there is no traditional lug here, and the look itself is rather distinctive in a way that won’t resonate with everyone.

The four configurations are: ZM 12 Blue Orange in steel, ZM 12 Silver Grey in steel, ZM 12 Olive Black in steel, and, finally, ZM 12 Chocolate Black in titanium. The Blue Orange and the Chocolate Black are unique for their use of two colors within the dial. Looking directly down at the dial, only one of those colors is visible, but at an angle, the second color begins to make itself known. This leads to a different view at every angle, and two very dynamic dials. All of them have a depth that’s apparent through the slightly domed sapphire.

If these watches remind you of the Porsche Design x IWC Ocean 2000, you’re not alone. In fact, they share some members of the same design team. That’s a classic design, the likes of which you just don’t really see these days, apart from this modern rendition from Leica. The dial treatment is very different, however, and brings a distinct personality to the table that contrasts with the Porsche Design watches, while the structure of the case and bracelet falls along the same lines.

Leica has worked with movement-making atelier Chronode to develop the automatic Leica Calibre LA-3002 inside, which is visible through an exhibition caseback. The movement has its own unique aesthetic, with an almost industrial finish that feels on-brand with other Leica products. Leica watches have always opted for more premium movements, and these are no exception. This means the pricing of these watches begins at $6,800 for steel references on fabric or rubber straps and $7,400 on a steel bracelet, on up to $8,350 for the full-titanium version.