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Back in 2016 Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Reverso Tribute collection to celebrate the 85th anniversary of their iconic reversible rectangular-cased watch. Last year they added four new Reverso watches to this collection, two of which finally get us back to a case size that is nearly identical to that of the original Reverso from 1931. The Reverso has been a canvass for so many of JLC’s designs and watchmaking innovations over the years but I have to say it is so nice to get back to the basics with a legitimately unisex size and a monoface dial. As nice as the duoface Reversos are, the watch was conceived for polo players who wanted to protect their watch while leaving room for some personalization on the enclosed side. Here I am looking at the Reverso Tribute Monoface in steel with a blue dial, though it is also available in a white dial version.
The year is 1931: Herbert Hoover is President, the Empire State Building in New York City is nearing completion, and the Star-Spangled Banner is adopted as America’s National Anthem. Of course, something entirely different is going on in the world of Swiss watchmaking when businessman and watch distributor Cesar de Trey attends a polo match while traveling in India. He notices one of the players watch crystal shattered while playing so he he pitched an idea to one of his colleagues who just happened to be Jacques-David LeCoultre. LeCoultre enlisted his partner Edmond Jaeger and the rest is, as they say, history.
The result was the Reverso, with a two-part case that swiveled on a hinge. Of course, as with more watchmaking innovations, the original intent of this design is fairly moot in our time. But that doesn’t mean that the Reverso isn’t one of the most charming (and coolest) conversation starters you can wear on your wrist. The option to have a discreet enclosed dial that easily converts into one of the most iconic watches of our time really shouldn’t be overlooked for those wanting to graduate up a notch in their watch collecting journey.
The original Reverso was 38mm tall, 24mm wide, and 6mm thick where the new Reverso Tribute Monoface watch is 40.1mm tall, 24.4mm wide, and 7.56mm thick. So, while technically a little bigger on paper the differences would hardly be noticeable when comparing them side-by-side on the wrist. When the Reverso Classic was released in 2016, there were three case size options with the small using a quartz movement and the medium/large using an automatic movement that caused the case thickness to swell to over 9mm thick. They also had busier dials with Arabic numerals and guilloché work which — while undeniably handsome— was just not really close to the original Reverso.
The real fun of a monoface Reverso is the customization of the opposite side of the rotating case. Sure, you can leave it blank if you so choose but that just sounds like such a wasted opportunity. JLC has the basic options like initials or text as well as designs like flowers, the Chinese zodiac or global monuments like the Eiffel Tower. If that’s not custom enough, you can do a personalized design done using line, etched, relief, or lacquered engraving.
I was also impressed by the suppleness, build quality, and stitching of the straps, so I wasn’t surprised to learn that these are specially made for the Reverso Tribute collection by Casa Fagliano. They have really nice contrasting textures with smooth calfskin flanking the case and saffiano calfskin extending from there on. Naturally, the blue dial model has a matching blue strap and the silver opaline has a golden-tan strap. The straps are actually interchangeable so they can be swapped out if you so wish.
This dial keeps it simple but without being a pure replication of the original. The Reverso is inherently tied to Art Deco design so the bold dauphine hands, applied trapezoidal indices, and clean minutes track are all the dial needs to make a punchy statement without causing clutter. Done in a stainless steel case with 30 m of water resistance, the two dial options are either silver opaline or, as seen here, blue sunray lacquer. I know the blue is going to be a hit and I understand why but there is a lot appeal in the subtlety of the silver opaline dial in my opinion, at least. Another nice touch are the off-center engraved sunbeam-style lines done on the inner side of the case frame which is visible when turning the face.
The Calibre 822 is the manual-wind movement of choice for non-duoface Reversos. A slim tonneau-shaped movement that measures 22mm wide and just 3mm thick, it operates at 3 Hz and has a 42-hour power reserve.
There is a lot of competition for a versatile dress watch these days. There are the usual options from Rolex and, of course, the Cartier Tank which is another rectangle-cased icon. I think the JLC Reverso Tribute is one of those “the only dress watch you’ll ever need” types that can be suitable in just about every situation from office to social events and even formal occasions. There is a certain contemporary practicality to being able to have a more demure stainless steel face as opposed to a watch face that is more about discretion as opposed to physical protection in a sport, also.
Of course, there are several versions of the JLC Reverso Tribute Monoface (not to mention Duoface) that are a little bigger or more elaborate than this one. You’ve got the Small Seconds which is a little larger at 27.4mm wide and 45.6mm tall priced at $10,600 in steel and $23,800 in gold. But, for my money, this simple iteration is the way to go with a price of $8,900 which is, in my opinion, pretty fair for one of the most historic and important watches ever created, let alone such an excellent reinterpretation of the original. You can learn more at jaeger-lecoultre.com
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