The Indie Intro: The Havid Nagan Classic One And Value In Independent Watchmaking

Havid Nagan is a small independent watch brand based out of Los Angeles that was founded by Aren Bazerkanian a few short years ago. Just released is the new Classic One watch, its third release after the debut HN00 from 2022 and the sophomore release of the HN01 Lucine Moonphase in 2023. Unlike some other independent brand founders, Bazerkanian is not a watchmaker or artisan by trade but rather he is a passionate enthusiast who understands that a watch is the sum of its parts. This parallels the Jean-Claude Biver model, which focuses on the “big picture,” and the result has been one of the more understated yet inarguably impressive runs of a new brand in the post-Covid landscape.

The team of industry pros and talent assembled by Bazerkanian for the Classic One includes Guillaume Tetu (previously product manager at TAG Heuer, co-founder of Hautlence, and Director of Product Development at Ralph Lauren Watches & Jewelry) and Aurélien Theurillat of GLS2F, which specializes in design, sourcing, and supply chains. The lineup also includes Romeo Granito of Cadranor, which has previously done the dial finishes for Havid Nagan. Finally, the team at Jean-Rousseau will be making the straps.

The Classic One goes in a different direction from the HN00 and HN01 with a more traditional case design that is inspired by pieces like the Parmigiani Tonic and the Daniel Roth-era Breguet Classique. Measuring 38mm wide and 9mm thick with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm, the Classic One case boasts near-perfect proportions for contemporary dress-watch buyers. There are alternating brushed and polished finishes throughout, as well as a very nice stepped bezel, but the lugs are the real standout, as they are almost scalloped and polished, something you really don’t see often.

The two dial versions are ebony and ivory, both masterfully done by the skilled team at Cadranor. The center of the dial and the small seconds subdial are done in galvanized brass and flanked by a sapphire ring upon which the minutes track is mounted. Beneath this, you’ll see another layer of brass which is finished in a clous de Paris guilloché pattern. I love the finishes on both the dial variants and the diamond-cut and polished hands/indices look so meticulously done while remaining legible — which is just as important as finishing quality. Havid Nagan deserves some real credit for executing such a thoughtful and well-finished layered dial in such a slim case.

Turning the case over reveals the new modified AMT6600 movement. For those unaware (which should be most of you), AMT is the niche, higher-end division of Sellita. I know Bazerkanian must have had his reservations here, but the end result speaks for itself, with the manual-wind movement being finished to a truly high standard. The 5N red gold mainplate is enhanced with a grained fine hammered finish and flanked by skeletonized bridges in ruthenium with anglage throughout. Also note the snailing done on the ratchet wheels. This is a movement design clearly inspired by the old-school masters like Derek Pratt. The COSC-certified movement has a 60-hour power reserve, which is solid.

The Havid Nagan Classic One comes in two variants: ivory with Sedona orange accents and ebony with contrasting silver finishes with each priced at $9,000. This is a lot of watch for the money and one of the more accessible ways for someone looking to get into independent watchmaking. You can learn more at havidnagan.com