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We’ve given our editors some fairly challenging categories in the past but maybe there is none more difficult than Omega. Yes, today we are picking our favorite watch by one of the mot prolific and historically significant watchmakers out there. There is a veritable bounty of options ranging from the obvious Speedmasters and Seamasters to the more obscure pieces released over the years (like the digital/analog Equinoxe) but what truly constitutes a personal favorite is, ultimately, up to the person. So, without further ado let’s get into our favorite Omega watches of all time.
Omega has made plenty of contributions to dive watch history, but none more distinctive than the Plongeur Professionel, or PloProf. This watch was originally designed for saturation divers with the help of COMEX in the late ‘60s, and never really meant to broad commercial consumption, but here we are more than 50 years later, and Omega currently sells a modern version of the PloProf for the princely sum of $14,300. It is still very much a niche watch, but these days it’s more of a celebration of Omega’s innovative history.
I love the PloProf for its unusual case shape, which was originally designed as a single monobloc piece of titanium, thus forgoing the need for a helium release valve. The case protected the crown, and featured a strange button along the three o’clock side that was used to release the bezel. Ultimately, the watch was even a bit too extreme to make it out of the ‘70s, but Omega saw fit to bring the design back in 2009 for a modern audience. It has slowly evolved back into a monobloc case (though now with a helium escape valve thanks to ISO standards), and it’s a watch I hope the brand continues to embrace. This is one of history’s most unique dive watches, and that character makes it my all time favorite Omega.
Some watch brands are defined by their risk-taking while others are lauded for mostly sticking with what works. Omega is somewhere in between. The brand maintains its sterling reputation and undisputed status in the upper echelons of the watch world by continuing to do what it does best — divers, chronographs, the occasional GMT and world-timer — while also, very judiciously, occasionally trying something different. In fact, when Omega does venture beyond its comfort zone, it’s almost always in a way that generates buzz from all corners of the enthusiast community, from conservative traditionalists to avant-garde radicals. Such is the case with the watch I heap praise upon here, the Omega Speedmaster Snoopy 50th Anniversary Edition, released in 2020 for the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 13 space mission.
From the front, the model is an unconventionally attractive version of the classic Speedmaster “Moonwatch” design, with dark blue used for the subdials, indexes, tachymeter bezel, and even the strap. The color was inspired by the patches the NASA astronauts wore on that 1970 mission, which gave rise both to a rather famous movie and to the “Snoopy” line of Speedmasters in general. The bezel is in blue ceramic, the indexes in blue PVD; the 9 o’clock subdial, as per tradition, hosts the playful image of an astronaut -helmeted Snoopy, with “50th Anniversary” text, here represented as a silver medallion evoking the official NASA “Silver Snoopy Award” pin. The case has the classic Speedmaster configuration, with a 42mm diameter, twisted lugs and pump pushers.
All this considered, the real story of this watch can be found on the opposite side. The caseback depicts a photorealistic view of the Earth and its galaxy from the Moon, with a cartoonishly rendered command module rocket, occupied by Snoopy, poised at the tip of a hidden, moving hand, which Omega calls a “Magic Hand.” When the wearer activates the Speedmaster’s chronograph function, Snoopy begins traversing the circumference of the caseback in his little rocketship, disappearing behind the “dark side of the moon” and then re-emerging, in an animated homage to the voyage of the Apollo 13 astronauts. But that’s not the only eye-catching dynamic on the back side of the watch: the blue disk representing the Earth also rotates once per minute in conjunction with the watch’s small seconds hand. (But don't just take my word for it; check out Teddy's video review of the watch here.)
Inside is the manually winding Master Chronometer Caliber 3861, equipped with Omega’s co-axial escapement and a magnetic-resistant silicon balance spring. It also boasts Omega’s “Master Chronometer” certification, which attests to the watch’s accuracy, reliability, and robustness. The best news of all for enthusiasts is that Omega has not put a “limited edition” tag on this watch, so you can — at least in theory; they’re very popular — acquire one direct from Omega rather than the secondary market where most previous Snoopy editions reside.
The Planet Ocean turns 20 this year and while it’s not the buzziest or most popular Seamaster out there, I’ve always had a soft spot for Omega’s modern luxury diver. By “modern” I mean there is no sentimentalized past or historical roots here, just a really nice and tough diver that’s finished to the nines (if a little chunky). In 2009, Omega released the Planet Ocean limited edition Planet Ocean LiquidMetal Limited Edition Ref. 222.30.42.20.01.001, a transitional model limited to 1,948 pieces. This was the first Omega to use a ceramic bezel and introduced the brand’s proprietary Liquid Metal Zr02 we see used today. What this watch did that was unusual was that it was outfitted with the older caliber 2500 rather than the newer thicker caliber 8500. This made for the 42mm wide case to be just 14.2mm thick as opposed to the 15.7mm thickness of the then-incoming second generation Planet Ocean. One of the great transitional watches of the modern era, the Planet Ocean LiquidMetal is one of the true hidden gems from a brand known for its blockbusters.
My favorite Omega of all time is probably my personal Omega Seamaster 34mm that was passed down to me by my Dad. But it isn’t necessarily my favorite Omega of all time in the intellectual sense, so excuse me for taking this opportunity to leave the sentimental piece off to the side and going super obscure as I choose the Omega Ranchero. Yes, the Ranchero –– the somewhat rare, minimally produced, seldom spoken about, and undoubtedly awesome vintage Seamaster variant. The Ranchero was produced in 1958, a year after the legendary trilogy of Seamaster, Railmaster, and Speedmaster. Perhaps it got caught in the shadow(s) of juggernauts and as a result was only produced for a handful of years. The ‘50s and early ‘60s models are my favorite, especially the white, or albino dials. I had the opportunity to see and handle one during a trip to the National Watch & Clock Museum in Pennsylvania, and boy was I hooked at first sight. It’s more Explorer-esque than the Railmaster and has the design codes (like the broad arrow hands) of the trilogy models. It’s a shame that it has entered such obscurity, but then again I may not have chosen it otherwise.
I promise you, it was very hard not to pick a Speedy. And then Blake picked the Ploprof so that made it even harder. So, here we are. Obviously, the Speedmaster holds a significant place in the history of Omega as a brand, and many enthusiasts around the world. But to choose any old Speedmaster as my favorite of all time wouldn’t be much fun. I’m going with the Japan Racing Speedmaster 3570.40 for the simple fact that it is a unique take on the classic, often varied format. And it did so with little fanfare. It’s special, without going too far or being too precious (in my opinion).
In 2004, the brand released to the Japanese 2,004 pieces of the Speedmaster with a gray dial, red ring around the minute track, and orange markers every ten minutes, and an alternating row of white markers for the seconds. It carried the usual 1861 movement, and the only difference to the standard Speedmaster was the dial and orange hands on the chrono subdials. Dials and hands were also available to watchmakers with the ability to order OEM parts, so ‘frankenwatches’ made their way onto the market, making distinguishing a factory Japan Racing watch from a OEM-supplied custom watch difficult. What was originally a racing watch that became known as the moonwatch now paying tribute to its roots as a racing watch in a lowkey, limited fashion is my type of limited edition.
Narrowing down to just one favorite Omega was tough. Initially, I was going to go with a similar model to the vintage Omega cocktail watch that I own and love (and which can still be found at really great prices on eBay, just saying), and the brand has a ton of Art Deco era designs worth exploring. Then I was musing over the Tubogas watches that the brand produced a small number of in the late 1940s (while Bvlgari might have a chokehold of the modern Tubogas identity, Omega definitely tried its hand at it). Ultimately, I settled on the brand’s first automatic watch marketed towards women, the Omega Ladymatic.
Introduced in 1955, the brand’s Ladymatic was remarkable for not only its small stature but for the tiny automatic movement within that managed to pass chronometer-level testing for accuracy. The vintage models are small and relatively no-nonsense, with just stick indices marking the hours, and I really like the gold bracelet paired with this model that looks quite snake-like. Now, the Ladymatic has been reimagined within the brand’s contemporary De Ville family with a larger 34mm diameter and is still powered by an automatic movement (now equipped with the brand’s co-axial escapement), but I find that the charm of the vintage models prevails over the line's current identity. All the diamond settings and mother-of-pearl dials are a bit overwhelming to my senses. Make it smaller, simpler, put it on a two-tone bracelet, and take my money, Omega.
My favorite Omega of all time isn’t a new one: in fact, being from the mid-’90s, it’s probably considered “neo-vintage” at this point. And this isn't to say that there aren’t a raft of new Omegas I love, and ones that I’d be more than delighted to add to the watch box, but this is the one I’ve held on to. The Omega Speedmaster Reduced (Reference 3510.50.00) is just one of those watches that instantly felt a part of me once I put it on, and that list is a short one.
At one point I was the proud owner of not only this Omega, but a Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch too, but that one has since left the collection for a couple of reasons. One, when worn on the factory bracelet, I never could get the fit exactly where I wanted it. It happens. This Moonwatch was a 2006 model, and due to that center link jutting out at the lugs, this one just never clicked with me. I loved the watch otherwise, but as a result, I only wore this one on a leather strap, which left me feeling like I wasn’t enjoying its full potential. And consequently, I wore it less and less, not wanting to sully its pristine condition. It was getting ridiculous. I believe watches are for wearing, and the idea of a “safe queen” just doesn’t sit well with me, so I bid it a fond goodbye.
In contrast, the Speedy Reduced has been one of my most-worn watches from any brand. And while it doesn’t get the attention and accolades of the Moonwatch, the fit is so exceptional on my own wrist, it wasn’t even a competition. If you haven’t experienced one for yourself, the wear is markedly different from the Pro. The 39mm case certainly overflows with that classic Speedy DNA, as does the Hesalite crystal and white-on-black dial aesthetic. But the shorter, sharper lugs just feel so right, and despite the inclusion of a chrono module on top of the movement, the case feels slim on my wrist. The bracelet is much more svelte than the Pro’s as well, with a vibe that splits the difference between vintage and contemporary, due to its simple pressed clasp mating with solid, jewel-like links. In fact, this is one watch in my collection that’s never left the bracelet.
Since the Reduced is an absolute keeper, I’ve learned to stop worrying about wear, and embrace the journey. Scratches and scuffs I’ve picked up on the clasp, bracelet, and crystal are piling up with the years, and I couldn’t care less. Once I released the Speedy Pro back into the wild, I was more resolved than ever to stick with pieces that actually get worn. If I happen upon a pristine vintage watch that isn’t a lifelong companion, I can guarantee it isn’t long for this world. And the Speedy Reduced is definitely a lifer.
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The 2022 release of the ck859 ranks high on my list.