Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Dive Watches Of 2024

This is where things start to get really competitive. There are so many impressive dive watches that come out in any given year and 2024 was no exception. Naturally, the editorial team here at Teddy chose divers that represent the vast diversity of options from an affordable micro brand to a solid gold Rolex and everything in between. But we don’t want to give it all away in the intro, so let’s take a look at our favorite dive watches from 2024 as chosen by Team Teddy:

Danny Milton: Zenith Defy Revival A3648

When one thinks of Zenith, one generally thinks of the chronograph, the automatic chronograph, the famed El Primero movement. Earlier this year, the brand brought back a seldom-known iteration of that watch via the triple calendar. I, along with my pal – and our EiC – Bilal Khan were in Miami for LVMH Watch Week when that launched. And while we were plenty captivated by it, there were whispers of a future launch in the air, something even more unexpected. Fast Forward to W&W, and we were confronted by my choice today, the Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648. Yes, a heritage dive watch from a heritage manufacturer of chronographs. Hardcore Zenith…ers, will have known about this watch for ages, but it came as a shock to many, myself included. From the ‘70s-inspired orange color to the overall overengineering, this one has stuck with me for the whole year which is why it has landed as my choice in today’s roundup.

Mark Bernardo: Bell & Ross BR-03 Diver

The enduring appeal of dive watches is undeniable but also somewhat curious, considering that of all the types of watches out there, the dive watch is perhaps the one that allows for the least amount of stylistic expression. At its core, any dive watch worthy of the name, even those with the most luxurious trappings, is still a tool, with strict parameters for useability and legibility. We can all name the handful of famous models that almost every other dive watch resembles to some extent; some of them are represented on this list. Details, colors, and materials may vary widely, but the most successful dive watches are always going to look like — well, other dive watches. So, when a watchmaker delivers a dive watch that goes for something a bit different in terms of aesthetics, at least for me, it is worthy of the year’s top spot. And this year, that distinction goes to Bell & Ross, and its revamped BR-03 Diver models.

Bell & Ross, of course, is best known for its Instrument series of aviation-style watches, distinguished by their “circle in a square” case-and-bezel design, derived from dashboard clocks on airplane instrument panels. The brand’s first attempts at making a signature dive watch, 1997’s Hydromax and 2007’s BR-02 series, both had more conventional, rounded cases, but with the BR-03, whose first iteration appeared in 2017, Bell & Ross finally managed to make a square-shaped watch that resists water pressure to 300 meters, and hits all the other marks for ISO 6425 certification, while still remaining unmistakably a member of the Instrument family. Dive watches with non-round cases are exceedingly rare, and Bell & Ross should be commended for (literally) not cutting any corners on this one.

While many of the usual suspects that dominate the dive genre did what was expected of them in 2024 — new colorways, new materials, maybe some new options at strap or bracelet — Bell & Ross drilled down into the minute details of its distinctive, dashboard-inspired diver, adding a ceramic insert to the bezel, redesigning the typography and hands for increased legibility, and dialing up the movement’s power reserve to 54 hours, for example. The result is an entirely optimized version of the BR-03, one of the industry’s most unusual yet most durable dive watches, now available in both stainless steel and full, matte black ceramic cases, as well as in a ceramic case with a fully-lumed dial.

Erin Wilborn: Wren Diver One

As the microbrand landscape grows, the competition only gets tougher. For me, it's the brand’s making pieces geared towards the enthusiast, that take time to get the small details right, that rise above the noise. Founded by Craig Karger aka Wrist Enthusiast, Wren (which, in case you missed it, is a clever portmanteau for wrist enthusiast), is a fledgling brand that is unabashedly made for enthusiasts, by the enthusiast himself. 

The old adage that it takes a lot of effort to make something appear to be effortless is applicable to Wren’s small lineup of divers – out of the two that the brand has released so far, one is already sold out.

Right now, the Wren Diver leans on a mix of vintage-inspired design cues but manages to bring a fresh take on the genre through subtle details like the fumé dial and streamlined dial layout, large and legible geometric hour markers, and lots of lume. For now, Wren is utilizing the Swiss-made Sellita SW200 automatic movement. Additionally, each model comes with both the very 50s flat link stainless steel bracelet and a rubber strap in the color of your choice, and I would definitely head to Wren’s Instagram to take a peak at the unboxing experience, which feels very luxe. The sub-$1,000 price point is also a huge win for Wren, and I’m looking forward to seeing how the brand grows, expands, and evolves over the next year. 

Jonathan McWhorter: Doxa Sub 200T 

To be most perfectly honest and transparent with you, the question of 2024’s top diver was a toss-up for me between the Zenith Defy Revival Diver and this watch. But Danny Milton picked the Zenith and we need variety for these lists. So, in the interest of variety and at the risk of ruining the magic of an Editor’s Pick list: my other-favorite dive watch from this year is Doxa’s Sub 200T. This watch wins out for me for a few reasons, necessity for variety aside. First: the size. At 39mm across, there’s nothing particularly Earth-shattering. However, the sub-11mm thickness is the kicker that puts the 200T into real contender territory. I had the opportunity to get one of these fellas on-wrist and it hit the sweet spot for me. Doxa has had a soft spot in my heart for quite some time, but the thickness has been a tough hurdle for me to get my smaller-sized wrists over. The wearability of this 200T easily quells any 

Also, the price! Again, not exactly Earth-shattering, but not wallet-shattering either. Right around $1,500 for a highly capable dive watch with legitimate pedigree is a real value proposition when you consider anything with a similar history. The Sub 200T comes in 26(!) specifications depending on your dial and strap/bracelet preference. So, you’re certainly bound to find the exact 200T for you.

D.C. Hannay: Aquastar Deepstar II Polarstar LE

I know my tastes can be a bit out there at times, but I really do have a deep and abiding appreciation of the classics. This is especially true when it comes to tool watches, as I feel like the vast majority of them have skewed too big and/or blingy in recent years. But there are always exceptions, and my favorite new divers this year, of course, just so happen to look old. Like, properly old, not ersatz vintage. Three in particular spring to mind, one of which is the 39mm Longines Legend Diver, which is not a new watch, but its tastefully restrained Anthracite dial is new, however, so this one definitely makes the short list. Another is Doxa’s new-but-vintage-looking Sub 200T, which fits me so well, I now own it. But as my man Yoda once said, “There is another”

And that other is the Aquastar Deepstar II ‘Polarstar’ Limited Edition, the latest iteration of a new watch that looks authentically vintage. It’s a note-perfect skin diver that touches all the bases: a great 37mm x 46mm case size, circular-brushed finish on top, the throwback jut of a domed sapphire crystal, and Aquastar’s patented no-decompression steel bezel, all shaken together into a perfect retro cocktail. Perhaps best of all is the ‘winking panda’ dial, which adds a single black register at nine to a white sunburst-finished dial, punctuated by a lone slash of red with the running seconds hand. The whole package is funky, eye-catching, and for me, perfectly sized. I love the brilliantly simple profile of a textbook skin diver, and Aquastar has done it better than just about anyone still producing this iconic midcentury design in the 21st century.

Blake Buettner: Tudor Black Bay 41 'Monochrome'

Catch me on any given day and there’s a high likelihood that I’m rocking a dive watch. The qualities that make a great dive watch also happen to make a great everyday watch; things like high legibility, minimal complications, and robust build quality. I also literally dive in them when I get the opportunity. This year, a few dive watches caught my attention, including the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver and the recently released trio of Seamaster 300M references from Omega. But at the end of the day, simplicity generally wins out, and for that the Tudor Black Bay 41 released at Watches & Wonders hits all the right notes. Tudor presented their refined Black Bay 41 case and excellent five link bracelet in a pure black and white colorway that, for as simple as it is, brought a new complexion to the collection, which generally embraces throwback vibes. The Black Bay ‘Monochrome’ transcends trends and flair, focusing instead of timeless versatility, and it delivers in spades. It’s not as exciting at a glance, but it’s got substance where it counts, and it’s my favorite dive watch released in 2024. 

Bilal Khan: Rolex Deepsea Gold

I think we can all agree that, in 2024, the concept of a mechanical dive watch is already beyond the scope of “is this really necessary?” So with that established, I love the Rolex Deepsea Ref. 136668LB in solid 18k yellow gold weighing in at a whopping 322g which is about 70% of a pound. With 3,900 m of water resistance, this has the same bones as the Deepsea that’s been out there since 2008 but note that the “Sea-Dweller” designation has been shed for this collection.

In many ways this is the bigger (in size) and younger (in age) sibling of the Submariner Ref. 126618LB which is also done in yellow gold with a blue dial and matching bezel. I have to give Rolex credit for also creating the Ringlock compression ring in blue Cerachrom matching the bezel, a touch that goes a very long way in creating that very cool solid blue face against the yellow gold case. I also want to call out the RLX Titanium case back which ties back to brand’s “Harmony of Contrasts” theme this year as yellow gold, titanium, and ceramic certainly come together to create an outlandish and altogether beautiful watch. Price is $54,200 which isn’t cheap but not far off from what anyone would guess a solid gold Rolex Deepsea should cost.