Owner's Review: Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar

Tastes great, less filling. That’s the tagline for a famous light beer, but the same could be said for Doxa’s latest version of its iconic Sub, the 200T. It’s a slimmed-down take on the iconic Doxa Sub diver, and although it features a new case size, this might be the Doxa for people who thought they could never wear the brand, including yours truly. It’s also available in a huge array of colorways, so now there really is something for everyone when it comes to the Doxa Sub.

The Doxa brand is certainly among the stars of the classic dive watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional from 1967, along with the black-dialed Sharkhunter version made famous by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, not to mention Robert Redford in Three Days Of The Condor. But today, we’re taking a look at the newest member of the Doxa Sub family, and there’s a lot to like here, not least of which is a lower price point. And although I haven’t been diving in quite some time, I can’t help feeling a little like an undersea explorer whenever I wear the 200T, which is quite often these days.

The classic Doxa Sub 300 and 300T have always worn rather well for larger watches, due to that distinctive tonneau case shape and those short lugs, but now, there’s a new version for someone who wants a tool watch that’s a bit less…tool-like. Enter the Doxa Sub 200T, rendered in a just-right size at 39mm. Honestly, it feels like a vintage piece precisely because of its trim dimensions, but believe it or not, this one is all-new. Now, a smaller Doxa Sub isn’t unprecedented: a 35mm version was marketed toward women in the late ‘60s and ‘70s. But 39mm hits the sweet spot for a ton of collectors, making this a viable option for those with smaller wrists looking to get into the brand. The case’s overall aesthetic should be instantly familiar, with the contours mirroring those earlier references. It features the classic circular brushing on top of the cushion case, along with polished sides for an upscale touch. The 200T is also incredibly slim for a 200-meter diver, measuring more than a millimeter less than a contemporary Seiko Turtle, just for reference. Case dimensions are as follows: 39mm in diameter, with a case height of 10.7mm, and a lug-to-lug of 41.5mm. The watch sits incredibly low on the wrist, easily allowing the 200T to slide under a shirt cuff. There’s an embossed screw-down caseback with the Doxa sailboat design, along with a signed screw-down crown with a color-matched, inlaid Doxa "fish" logo. The signature Doxa “no-decompression” unidirectional bezel features twin scales, a first-of-its-kind feature among dive watches back in the day. Bezel action is crisp, with just enough resistance, and the edge offers exactly the right amount of grip.

As far as the bracelet goes, it’s worth mentioning that the end links, while fitting perfectly well, do feature vertical brushing on the outer portions, which may throw off some people as it doesn’t follow the circular brushing of the case. But really, it’s just a matter of preference, and a minor detail that probably won’t bother most collectors. The beads-of-rice bracelet remains one of the most supremely comfortable on the market, with great articulation for unbeatable flexibility. The outer links are brushed, while the inner bead links go for a polished finish that’s unmistakably Doxa. A burly, machined, twin push-button clasp is crisp in its finishing, and features an embossed Doxa fish logo and wordmark. The bracelet also gets a simple but slick ratcheting wetsuit extension, with five clicks of adjustment offering a full 10mm of travel. It’s an uncomplicated but effective solution, and works well on those hot tropical days when your wrists swell from the heat. If a bracelet isn’t your preference, the 200T is also available on a high quality, color-matched FKM rubber strap with a deployant clasp. 

As for dial choices, you’re spoiled for those with the 200T, as it’s available in more colors than are in a bag of Skittles. You’re presented with six "Iconic" flat colors that match the aesthetic of the classic Sub, and seven sunray versions, with a total of 26 variants available, counting all the rubber strap and steel bracelet permutations. In this review, we’re looking at one of the most distinctive Doxa dial variants, the "Divingstar" Iconic in vivid yellow. Of all the dial options in the 200T range, I’ve always been drawn to the yellow. It’s a less obvious choice than the orange Professional or black Sharkhunter, and while yellow may not be an incredibly versatile color, I find this particular dial to have some of the best contrast out of all the Sub variants, with its black hands popping against the bright yellow. Another reason is purely sentimental, as it reminds me of that very particular shade of paint used by Ferrari, known as “Fly Yellow,” the same color that adorned the BB 512 poster in my bedroom as a kid. 

A framed date window resides at 3 o'clock, with the "Doxa" wordmark and "automatic" at 10:30, and "Sub 200T" and "Divingstar" at 4:30, making for an oddly asymmetrical dial that strikes a surprising amount of balance. The dial sports white and black printed and lumed hour markers, and simple black hash marks for the minute track. The Super-LumiNova glows blue for a contemporary look, but anecdotally, the glow is less intense and long-lasting than some other dive options on the market, such as Seiko’s nuclear-intensity Lumibrite. The lume isn’t bad by any means; just not as bright as it could be. The 200T features the characteristic big minute hand and small hour hand associated with the Doxa Sub, with a blocky lollipop at the end of the second hand.

Doxa has long utilized ETA movements for the majority of its models, but with supply from the Swatch Group effectively dwindling down to zero over the past several years, a new solution was a must for many brands. And the solution for many has been Sellita. In this case, it’s the go-to replacement for the ETA 2824, Sellita’s SW 200-1. Doxa has slowly been migrating most of its movement sourcing to Sellita as a supplier over the last several years, and it looks as if the brand is almost fully Sellita at this point. The SW 200-1 is a proven caliber at this stage in the game, with specs that are comparable to the ETA in nearly every regard. The SW 200-1 runs at a rate of 28,000 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hertz, offers hacking and hand winding, and carries a just-so-so power reserve of 38 hours, which lags behind others in that department. Still, this is a durable, easily serviceable caliber that serves as a drop-in replacement for an ETA, and the perfect choice for a dive watch where reliability takes precedence over fancy movement finishing. To borrow an overused phrase, it’s a workhorse, and one that sits behind a closed caseback, totally appropriate for a serious tool watch.

If I were to call out any caveats of the 200T, I would advise you to consider the following: the vintage looks may not be for everyone, and certainly, yellow isn't the most versatile color. The lume is okay, but not exactly world-beating. The power reserve of the Sellita movement is just average, but in line with the ETA caliber it replaces. And finally, some may prefer different finishing on the end links, but the look doesn’t really bother me. 

As for the pros, the new case size wears like a dream. The dial options on offer are ridiculous, with 13 to choose from. The bracelet is one of the most comfortable you’ll find, and easy to adjust when the temperature rises. And another thing: the 200T is a great value in the Doxa hierarchy: it retails for $300 less than a Sub 300T, and $1,000 less than a Sub 300. Just by virtue of its reduced dimensions, the 200T brings a timeless look to a much wider audience. I find it to be an unimpeachable choice for fans of classic divers, a true icon in a field of pretenders.

I can safely say, without a hint of exaggeration, that the Doxa Sub 200T has become one of my go-to's in daily wear. Barring a meeting or formal event, I’ve worn the 200T almost as often as my Serica 5303 since picking up the Doxa last fall — quite a feat considering how many boxes the Serica ticks for me. The Doxa looks absolutely vintage, fresh from an early-’70s time capsule. The dial is a choice, to be sure, but I love the retro Divingstar aesthetic, and it’s a bold alternative to the more commonly seen orange, black, and silver dials associated with the Doxa Sub. On top of the vintage look that I love so much, this watch is incredibly comfortable. From the short lug-to-lug, trim case height, and 39mm diameter, this just hits me right in my personal comfort zone. The small links of the beads-of-rice bracelet lend a truly supple feel that contours to your wrist better than almost anything I can think of, and I find myself using the on-the-fly adjustment of that simple dive extension several times a day. It’s so easy, in fact, you don’t even have to take the watch off, much less break out the tools. And that ease of wear plays no small role in how often I grab the 200T. It’s amazing how such a unique and possibly polarizing watch has become one of the mainstays of my collection, but there it is. Price is $1,590.