Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Review

The Doxa name is certainly among the superstars of the classic dive-watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional, as well as the black-dialed Sharkhunter version, as worn by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. But Doxa’s diving history predates the 1967 introduction of the 300, and today we’re looking at a watch that harks back to those earlier models, specifically those with twisted-lug cases that preceded the tonneau-shaped Sub 300 we associate most with the brand. This is the Doxa Sub 200, specifically the Sharkhunter variant, and it’s a fantastic-looking callback to the early ‘60s. 

Best of all, it represents the entry point into the modern Doxa lineup at just a shade above $1,000 retail, and if you’re not a fan of black dials, the brand known for its colorful divers has seven other colorways to choose from. But today, we’re going to take a closer look at the 200 that most closely resembles its vintage inspiration, the black-dialed Sharkhunter model. In its most basic black form, the dial is a slice of midcentury perfection. This is the watch Mad Men's Don Draper would wear on a weekend getaway to Palm Springs.

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Case: 

You'd be forgiven if you thought the case of the Sub 200 was influenced by a vintage Omega Seamaster 300, but it turns out that the look of the case is a direct callback to Doxa's history. The lyre-lugged design is a direct descendant of the vintage Doxa Sharkhunter from the early ‘60s, known by its reference number, 11804-4. The case was sourced from the same Swiss casemaker, Huguenin Frères et Cie, that supplied Omega and Eberhard for use in their dive watches, as it was a common practice for brands of the day to use the same suppliers for parts like cases, dials, and movements. 

The modern-day version of the stainless-steel Sub 200 case checks in with a 42mm diameter, a compact lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm, and a case height of 13.7mm, with some of that height the result of the vintage-leaning, domed sapphire crystal. When accounting for the tall crystal, the case itself is rather slim, and wears exceptionally well, with an overall presence more like that of a 40mm case. The retro-style bezel features a sapphire insert in black with khaki-colored lume, piling on the throwback vibes with a look that recalls vintage Bakelite. Bezel action is extremely well-executed, and offers minimal play throughout its 120 clicks.

You'll find an attractive combination of brushed and polished surfaces, with a bevel that travels the entire length of the case, and those classic twisted lugs that give a proper vintage look. The screw-down crown is slightly recessed, negating the need for large crown guards, and it features the Doxa fish logo rendered in the brand's trademark orange. The lug width measures 19mm, so strap swapping isn’t as simple as it could be with a more standard 18 or 20mm size, but there are still plenty of aftermarket choices available. Nevertheless, Doxa’s own black FKM rubber strap is a fine option, and it sports a "beads of rice" texture and a substantial, signed pin buckle. FKM has proven itself to be one of the best materials for dive straps, as it’s durable, supple, and doesn’t attract lint. And if an actual beads-of-rice bracelet is more to your taste, Doxa offers that option for a mere $40 upcharge over the rubber. It features solid end links, a folding clasp with a safety fliplock, four points of micro-adjustment, and a diver’s extension. 

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Dial:

If you're familiar with the Doxa Sub 300, you're no doubt also acquainted with the rainbow of color choices when it comes to dials, each one getting its own unique name. The Sharkhunter is definitely among the more conservative picks, with its no-nonsense black dial, but it sticks to its vintage inspiration, down to the aged effect of the Super-LumiNova-filled hour markers and pencil-style handset. I will say, however, that the lume execution on the Sharkhunter variant is rather underwhelming. I fully understand that aged-effect lume is going to be less intense than white lume, but the retro green glow of this particular Doxa is a bit dim compared to other modern dive watches. Still, we’re all fine with tritium-lumed vintage pieces that have deteriorated to the point of barely glowing, so I’m chalking this up to the Doxa’s considerable vintage charm. But this is an area that could stand to see some improvement from the brand. 

The polished rectangular markers are a stylistic turn away from the Sub 300’s painted dial details, offering a bit more buttoned-up flair when you’re stepping out on the town. Minute markings are printed with white hash marks, and the date window also gets a white surround at 3 o’clock. The muted dial text sticks to the facts, with a vintage “Doxa” wordmark below 12, “Sub 200” above 6, and “Swiss Made” on either side of the marker at 6. The dial, taken as a whole, is handsome, versatile, highly legible, and has an aesthetic that fondly recalls those mid-20th-century references. 

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Movement:

At its introduction, the Sub 200 was powered by the venerable ETA 2824-2, a reliable workhorse that could be easily serviced just about anywhere. Now, with the Swatch Group basically eliminating supply of ETA movements to third parties, the caliber of choice for many brands has become Sellita. Doxa only specifies “Swiss mechanical automatic” in its marketing materials, but it doesn’t take a whole lot of detective work to figure out that the automatic Sellita SW200-1 has become their drop-in replacement for the ETA. 

So, even though it’s hidden behind the solid screw-down caseback, the movement inside is most likely the SW200-1 in all but the earliest versions. And truly, these are a direct ETA replacement offering virtually the same performance, so one is not superior to the other. The Sellita features 26 jewels, a Nivaflex mainspring, shock protection, and it runs at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hertz. It features hacking and hand-winding, and has a power reserve of 38 hours, which is unremarkable these days, but perfectly adequate if this is your daily driver. And although you can’t see it behind the closed caseback, the Sellita gets a Doxa-branded rotor for your watchmaker to appreciate. 

Final Thoughts:

Alright, let’s bottom-line what I think are the highs and lows of the Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter. To start with some shortcomings, I have to call out the lume’s lack of intensity. Yes, it’s got the hurdle of a vintage khaki tone to overcome, but the glow is still less than what you might expect. Secondly, the power reserve of the Sellita movement is hardly class-leading at 38 hours, but I’m choosing to be practical here. If this is your daily watch of choice, this will never be an issue. The SW200 is a proven performer in terms of reliability, and I would rather have the sweep of a 4 Hz-powered second hand than an extended power reserve from a 3-Hz movement. Call it personal preference. Let’s face it, this is a hobby where logic and reason often go ignored. We just like what we like. 

Now, onto the highlights. Firstly, this is a watch straight out of a 1962 time capsule. From the reserved countenance of the dial, to the Bakelite look of the bezel insert, the overall effect is effortlessly cool, and parked securely in my retro-leaning wheelhouse (as you can read in my other Doxa review here). On top of that, the compact lug-to-lug allows this 42mm diameter case to wear easily on a broad swath of the wrist-having public. This is a comfortable watch, both on the rubber and the beads-of-rice bracelet. If you’re the less conservative type, there’s a full spectrum of colorways to choose from, but in this case, you can always bet on black. Despite a few details that could stand improvement, none of them are a dealbreaker for me. The Sub 200 is just so utterly handsome, well-sized, and brimming with vintage swagger that it’s impossible not to like. It’s rugged enough to shrug off the knocks of daily life, and look fantastic while doing it. In short, this is a watch that makes it look easy.