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The choice of where to begin a watch collection might just be the most personal decision you ever make in your collecting journey. Today, I will be acting as your watch inspiration fairy godmother and offer up what I think is a delectable platter of best starter watches to choose from for those gearing up to take the plunge into this hobby.
Some rules of the road: today, I’m aiming for reasonably attainable watches that I think are suitable for confident beginners. My picks are more geared towards those who have already been bitten by the watch-collecting bug and have surpassed the “will I actually wear a watch regularly” conundrum. This is a necessary phase; we all go through it, but from now on, I will assume that you, dear reader, if you’ve found yourself here, that you are pretty damn confident that you want to wear a watch proudly on a daily basis. So without further ado, let’s get into the watches, shall we?
Case: 40mm Movement: 8210 Automatic Water Resistance: 50 meters (still water swimming) Price: $356.25
As an entry point into mechanical watches, Citizen and Seiko are really neck-in-neck on offering some of the best value for the price, with many solid automatic models available for under $500. These Japanese heavy hitters are really in a class of their own. But among the rather extensive contemporary catalog of Citizen watches, its Tsuyosa line offers the most versatility and GADA potential.
When I’m thinking of a GADA watch or something with the possibility of a one-and-done watch collection, I lean towards pieces that can be worn with just about anything, that have more than splash-proof water resistance, and don’t necessarily have all the bells and whistles in favor of a more streamlined design. The Tsuyosa delivers all that and more, and the collection has an exhaustive variety of dial colors and sizes to choose from to really find one that works for your own style and your own life.
Case: 40.2mm Movement: 6R55 automatic Water Resistance: 100 meters Price: $950
There are an ungodly number of Seiko watches I could’ve chosen that would be right at home in this category, but there’s just something about the Presage that makes it stand out among the bunch for me. If you’re in the market for something a little more intricate, a touch more on the dressy side, go ahead and check out the Cocktail Time wing of the Presage collection, but I’ve gone with this green dial model of the Presage for our purposes here.
Versatility is the name of the game with this take on the Presage, but there are plenty of subtle details that both add a little personality and make the watch feel more cohesive and elevated overall. In addition to being a shade of brown green that I don’t see utilized that often, the dial has an interesting textural finish, which, as the brand says, is intended to call to mind lustrous silk, and really plays with the light beautifully. I also really like that the date window is color-matched to the dial, which is a detail that adds a lot of visual harmony for me to the overall design. The seven-link bracelet is also a win, but this thing would definitely look great on a strap as well. Though the overall aesthetic of this watch is rather sophisticated, you’re also getting 100 meters of water resistance, which is always a plus in terms of ruggedness.
Case: 40mm Movement: Sellita SW200-1 Water Resistance: 100 meters Price: $1,405
We’re once again on the higher end of the price spectrum for this roundup, but I think The Twelve from Christopher Ward is well deserving of its placement here. Christopher Ward is the darling of the independent watch world, and The Twelve collection really showcases the brand’s greatest strengths – offering well-built, interesting designs at a reasonably priced point within the landscape of watches.
The Twelve collection is Christopher Ward’s answer to GADA watches, and each one of them is up for just about anything, from an elevated night out to a spontaneous hike. My personal watch tastes are probably showing here, but I think integrated bracelet pieces are the most versatile styles out there, and from the funky dial texture to the finishing techniques used to the tapering of the bracelet, The Twelve is among the most compelling in the category for the price. For the movement, the collection utilizes the workhorse Sellita SW200-1 Automatic, which can be seen in action through the caseback.
Case: 36mm x 41.5mm Movement: VK68 Hybrid Meca-Quartz Chronograph Water Resistance: 50 meters Price: $475
Originally, I had the Bulova Super Seville picked to round out this section (which still definitely works), but I wanted something a little different, a little more quirky to add, since there are already a few others from the brand that have made it on this list. Then it hit me – the Brew Metric also has the funky 1970s, retro TV-shaped case, and would also work perfectly for those who also have an espresso machine on their post-grad gift list.
Of all the current options within Brew’s Metric lineup, I think that the “Retro” color is my favorite, and really makes the whole groovy 1970s vibes really stand out. The 36mm diameter is super versatile, and looks great on many different wrist sizes, and I still can’t get over the novelty of having a chronograph function dedicated to coffee making. It’s peak microbrand fun. The integrated bracelet features a microadjust for making the watch fit more comfortably on your wrist, and the use of the Hybrid Meca-Quartz movement in this case not only keeps the price reasonable, but also offers the reliability of quartz with the more premium feel of a mechanical movement, including sweeping chronograph hands and a crispy, tactile pusher feel when using the chronograph functions.
Case: 27mm x 32mm Movement: Quartz Water Resistance: 30 meters Price: $845
When I think about watches for graduates or general milestones, I tend to think about pieces more on the dressy side. It’s probably got something to do with stepping into a new phase of life with proper fanfare, needing something that’s a visual marker of “I’m not a kid anymore, folks.” The original Hamilton Boulton that this watch takes its design cues from has been around since the early 1940s, and I can only assume that it’s been received as a graduation gift for just as long.
What I love about the Boulton, especially this yellow gold-toned model, is how it pays tribute to its Art Deco roots without feeling dated. In true Hamilton fashion, this model in particular also happens to have connections to the silver screen – yep, this is the Boulton that was featured in Indiana Jones: The Dial of Destiny. Anywho, I really like the elongated rectangular case with softened edges and dramatic lugs (and I’m pretty sure that Hermés was inspired by the early Boulton models as it was drafting up its Cape Cod), the railroad minutes track, and the running seconds subdial just above six o’clock, which adds a little aesthetic flavor to a relatively simple design.
Case: 38.5mm Movement: Alpha Manual Water Resistance: 100 meters Price: $1,960
Every time the subject of graduation watches comes up, the Nomos Club Campus comes back to haunt me, and I’ve been cursed to bring it back up once again today. But it is, after all, made with the recent grad in mind, so it would just feel wrong to skip over it.
I will admit that the Club Campus pricetag is among the steepest on this list, but you’re getting a whole lot of watch for that price. In addition to its playful personality, which is so quintessentially Nomos, you’re getting the brand’s in-house manufactured Alpha manual caliber, though you won’t be able to see the mechanical beauty of it in action – the caseback is closed for maximum personalized engraving potential. Additionally, this watch is more versatile (and sporty) than meets the eye, with its swim-proof water resistance of 100 meters.
Case: 39mm Movement: ETA 2824-2 automatic Water Resistance: 50 meters Price: $925
Tissot is often the first step in a collector's journey into the wild world of mechanical Swiss watchmaking, but for this roundup, I’m staying away from the fan-favorite PRX and Gentleman models. Instead, I’ll turn us towards the brand’s Heritage 1938 COSC, where the brand turns towards an earlier era of design for inspiration.
While I think my preference ultimately lies with the salmon-dial variation of this watch, the combination of anthracite grey does make all the Art Deco elements feel a touch fresh and modern. Measuring 39mm in diameter and 45mm lug-to-lug, the Heritage 1938 combines early 20th-century dress watch style with 21st-century perks, including the COSC-Certified ETA 2824-2 automatic movement for just under the $1,000 mark.
Case: 43.5mm Movement: HPQ NP20 Water Resistance: 50 Meters Price: $895
The Speedmaster isn’t the only watch out there that has a claim on some real lunar exploration. As the story goes, while on the Apollo 15 mission, the crystal on Commander Dave Scott’s NASA-Issued omega popped right off, and he turned to his own Bulova chronograph for timekeeping accuracy in a pinch. So it’s trip to the moon might not have been planned, but the Lunar Pilot does have the astronautical chops to earn its title.
There are a few sizes and color renditions of the Bulova Lunar Pilot, but I’m going with what I believe to be the most versatile with the 43.5mm black dial edition. In its size and its design, this model is largely unchanged from the 1971 model that it draws inspiration from with its tricompax chronograph subdial layout, rectangular indices, and tachymeter scale. The movement within is, obviously, different, opting for Bulova’s own High Precision Quartz NP20.
Case: Movement: 6R35 Automatic Water Resistance: 200 meters Price: $620
In addition to being a reimagining of Seiko’s first tool watch from 1959, the Prospex Alpinist is also one of the brand’s continuous best-selling models. I could have put this pick in several of the categories on this list, but I wanted to add something a little more unconventional to this here vintage selection, and the Prospex Alpinist has all the quirkiness I was looking for to make this section feel complete.
Despite having real 20th-century field watch roots, the Prospex Alpinist does look dramatically different from its “Laurel Alpinist” heritage predecessor, but that only works in this watch’s favor. The signature cathedral hands add that vintage feel, but also make it stand out dramatically from the typical field watch offerings of today. The bright green dial is also somewhat wildcard choice that works, along with the internal bezel that’s changed with the additional crown at four o’clock.
Case: 23mm Movement: FC-200 Quartz Water Resistance: 30 meters Price: $995
In all honesty, Frederique Constant has been a brand I’ve mostly overlooked. That was until it really started putting some heft behind its watches that are more geared toward the ladies. The Classics Manchette that the brand released earlier this year really blew me away, but still, I do think it’s a little too jewelry-oriented for the purposes of this roundup. Still, definitely more than worthy of a look if you’re in the market for a tiny watch with a killer bracelet.
Enter the Frederique Constant Classic Carrée ladies remix. You can’t tell me that this isn’t giving off Cartier Tank Francaise vibes, at less than a quarter of the price. It’s adorably small but not too tiny with its 30mm diameter, and the Clous de Paris textural motif at the dial's center really elevated the piece, making it even more elegant overall. I think paired with the bracelet initially gives you the most out-of-the-box versatility – can definitely be slung on the wrist without a care, wearing some blue jeans on a casual day, or dressed up. The brand does make additional leather straps, or you can get your own with a 15mm lug width if you want to lean into this watch’s classic, vintage appeal. The catch is, it is quartz-powered, but that’s par for the course when it comes to watches of this size. And, hey, you don’t have to worry about setting the thing all the time.
Case: 30mm Movement: Powermatic 48 COSC-Certified automatic Price: $1,100
From across the room, I don’t think you could tell me that these new-for-2025 Tissot Ballades aren’t a Lady Datejust, and for me, that’s a huge draw. The only thing that really would mark a major difference from a distance would be the flat date window over the classic Cyclops Datejust one, but I haven’t gotten my eyes checked in a while, so I would probably miss that, too.
Aside from its resemblance to one of the most iconic women’s watches of all time, the new Tissot Ballade in the smaller 30mm sizing also packs in a fully fledged mechanical automatic movement with the Powermatic 48, which is on full display through the caseback. Other notable details include the Roman Numeral indices (which, to be honest, I can’t tell if I really like. I’m more of an Arabic numeral girl myself), a richly textured dial, and a 5-link, Jubilee-esque bracelet with a quick-release system.
Case: 23.3mm x 37mm Movement: Quartz Water Resistance: 30 meters Price: $2,000
While the minified DolceVita is my continuous first choice from the line, I feel as though I’ve written about the brand’s tiniest watch to death recently, and am turning my attention to its full-sized family member.
Maybe I’m just personally in a Cartier Tank Francaise kick, because paired with a bracelet, the DolceVita also has a similar vibe with a little bit of Panthère flair. And though I am the one making the comparisons here, it’s important to note that the DolceVita has its own unique history, which dates back to the early 1920s. Longines has been making rectangular watches for a long, long time now. The dial is the star of the show here, mixing in that Art Deco design flair via the sector details of the dial and the railroad minutes tracks with a dynamic flinqué textural finish and bright blue hands. Again, I prefer to go the bracelet route first and think about straps after, but the vintage design elements just really work paired with a leather strap, too.
Case: 38mm Movement: H-10 Automatic Water Resistance: 100 meters Price: $850
I’m going to guess that you already anticipated a Khaki Field being on this list – the collection has pretty much solidified itself as a permanent resident on everyone's “beginner-friendly” or “first mechanical watch” recommendation shortlist. But that’s just because it delivers on nearly all fronts, from its 20th field watch legacy to its versatile sizing options and reasonable price. It’s not my fault that it's a solid collection!
While the Khaki Field Murph tends to take up much of the spotlight today, I’m turning to the less-hyped Khaki Field Auto Date. Hamilton recently expanded the line with new dial options in blue and green with a sunray finish, and I think they both look fantastic. Compared to the Murph, the dial layout of these has got a little more going on, but the 24-hour minutes scale is another callback to the line’s military origins. This watch is offered in both 38mm and 42mm sizing, but I think the 38mm is the one that sits right in the sizing sweet spot, and the 20mm lug width is also another vote of confidence for its overall versatility. There is a slight upcharge for the three-link bracelet, but I would recommend shelling out the $50 and getting the strap of your choice after. Additionally, the 38mm variants are powered by the automatic H-10 caliber and are water resistant to 100 meters.
Case: 40.5mm Movement: Powermatic 80 Water Resistance: 300 meters Price: $970
Now moving onto our starter diver pick, we’re going with Certina’s DS Action Diver, which is now more extremely resistant than ever before. Though aesthetically, this diver doesn’t differ much from the line’s identity, this model features the brand’s new “DS Concept Extreme Shock Resistance,” which does exactly what you think it does. The name is pretty self-explanatory.
Measuring 40.5mm (another sizing sweet spot), this diver is tool-oriented in its design language, but feels a touch more sophisticated with its mixing of black with tones of yellow gold throughout. The new extreme shock resistance is achieved through a combination of a reinforced domed crystal, an embedded protective plate, and a movement locking system that’s made to maintain the integrity of the watch’s resilience over time. This thing is really made for performance diving, offering bold and clear lume on all the hour markers for legibility, 300 meters of water resistance up to ISO 6425 standards, and utilizes the Powermatic 80 movement with its signature 80-hour power reserve. As to be expected with a diver capable of reaching impressive depths, this watch does compensate for its ruggedness with its 14.1mm case height, but that’s par for the course. The brand currently offers this watch with different strap and bracelet combinations, but as I’ve said before, I’d recommend just spending a little extra money up front for the bracelet.
Case: 42.5mm Movement: 4R35 Automatic Water Resistance: 100 meters Price: $495
It’s only right to round out the tool watch section with a GMT (since I’ve already dropped in a chronograph option in other categories), and I’m going with Seiko’s versatile and attainable SSK01 5 Sports. The brand does have some GMT options that are more in the goldilocks sizing sweet spot, but don’t let the 42.5mm diameter scare you off – the short, truncated lugs help this piece wear slightly smaller than its dimensions suggest, which is a good thing.
The SSK001, with its minimal color palette dominated by black, white, and grey (with the added fun of the poppy red dedicated GMT hand, of course), is the most subdued of the lineup, but again, I’m going for overall versatility here. If you are unafraid of a little boldness, you’re more than welcome to check out the bright orange SSK005, or the navy blue SSK003. Whatever your choice, all of the models within the family draw from the fan-favorite SKX series in their design, from the dial layout to the case shape and the five-link bracelet. In addition to the dedicated GMT hand and 24-hour scale on the bezel, the SSK001 is water resistant to 100 meters, and powered by the 4R35 automatic caliber with manual winding and a 41-hour power reserve. Oh, and as another plus, this watch is currently on sale for $396.
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