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The past five years (or longer, actually) has seen a resurgence in the collectibility of vintage watches. Yet with this resurgence, we also have seen rising prices on coveted vintage models, which make it daunting for many enthusiasts to dip into this world. This demand opened the doors to microbrands that answer the call of higher demand for watches with vintage looks at more affordable prices. French microbrand Baltic has leaned into this theme, releasing the excellent Aquascaphe and recently launching the dressy MR01, which features applied Breguet numerals over a lovely textured dial in three different colors: Salmon, Blue, and Silver. The most interesting element for many enthusiasts will be the micro-rotor-equipped automatic Hangzhao CAL5000A movement.
Dufrane was founded in Austin, Texas, an area whose influence is felt throughout the collection, whose timepieces offers many stylistic nods to the city. The brand prides itself on those Texas roots, and the hand assembly of all their watches in the United States. The brand first made its way onto the scene with the competitively priced and capable dive watch called the Barton Springs. As a shift away from those sporty undertones, Dufrane unveiled the Waterloo, a dressy watch with everyday capabilities, and the Travis (pictured), named after Austin's Lake Travis, with a dial that captures its dazzling shades of blue.
Brand: Elka
Model featured: X02
One of the newest yet “oldest” brands on our list, Elka traces its heritage all the way back to a Dutch watch brand, founded in Amsterdam in 1877, which opened a branch in Switzerland in 1949 and disappeared from the scene entirely in the 1970s. The modern Elka, which opened its doors in 2022, is fully Swiss, a project of former Swatch Group design veteran Hakim El Kadiri (nicknamed Elka, in a bit of serendipity), and leans not only into the vintage styles of its defunct predecessor but also into eccentric, unconventional aesthetic elements, as on the X02 model pictured, whose dial puts the emphasis on the minute markers rather than the hours. Also classically Swiss are the movements, from the artisans at La Joux-Perret (actually owned these days by the Japanese Citizen Group), which offer extended 68-hour power reserves, an extra bonus at the watch’s very reasonable price point of around $1,500.
In the microbrand community, there are several companies that most would agree occupy the the upper echelon in terms of materials, and the British brand Farer falls in this category. This British brand's unique and fun design formula is recognizable throughout its catalog, defined by a use of vibrant colors. With most of Farer's pieces falling within the $1,000-$2,000 price range, they are among the more expensive watches on this list, but the prices are warranted thanks to the elevated Swiss movements within and the quality finishing throughout. Highlighted here is the Segrave Monopusher, containing an automatic movement with single-push chronograph functionality and a matte black dial with. a "big eye" bicompax layout and colorful details.
Formex is one of those brands that are certainly on the cusp of being classified as an "independent" — which one could make a strong argument for, as the company has been around for a considerable amount of time by microbrand standards — founded in 1999 — and is today producing some fantastic pieces for the money. Many Formex watches are COSC chronometer-certified. Based in Biel, Switzerland, Formex has become increasingly popular thanks to the Essence model and its stylish and sporty dive-watch companion, the Reef, GMT version pictured above.
Every brand’s marketing strategy attempts to position their pieces as unique product in the marketplace. However, in the watch industry, styles and concepts are constantly recycled and truly unique concepts are rare. Microbrands in this highly competitive environment must find a way to stand out. Hegid is a proudly French brand that does offer something unique in this space: a modular case system that allows the owner to interchange the dial and movement — each one is designed as a so-called capsule — into different cases (or “carrures”) with their proprietary case technology. France-based Hegid has been one of the more interesting brand concepts we’ve seen in recent years
Lüm-Tec was launched by Mentor, Ohio-based Wiegand Custom Watch Company LLC, which does OEM/ODM production for private label watch brands and counts some major watch brands among its thousands of customers worldwide. Lum-Tec is the company’s showcase brand, taking the first part of its name, as you’d expect, from the incredibly bright luminous material used on its dials, derived from a technology the company calls MVD (Maximum Darkness Visibility), which combines a layer of white titanium dioxide, six additional layers of custom-developed, highly reactive Super-LumiNova, and a final layer of clear glass coat.
MKII was founded in 2002 as a customization workshop for brands such as Seiko and Luminox. Because of its early experience in this arena, MKII was a pioneer of the custom watch market, especially in the United States. The brand built a product line based on homage watches, paying tribute to some of the most iconic and important models to ever be produced. The homage watch category can be a tricky tightrope to walk, but MKII has become very well respected in this space. The build construction and overall quality of the final product, which is assembled in the United States, is what endears MKII to the watch community at large.
Brand: Minase
Watch Featured Above: Urushi Maki-E by Hakose
Minase, based in Japan’s Akita Prefecture, traces its relatively short history to the high-end manufacturer Kyowa, which has been making tools and components for watch companies inside and outside Japan since 1963. In 2005, a group of ambitious watch designers within the company launched the brand HIZ, which became “Minase” in 2017, taking its name from the former village that occupied the area around the factory. Minase watches specialize in openworked dial whose movements appear suspended inside the cases; the geometrically inspired “Windows” cases, with rounded rectangular sides and five to seven individual sapphire crystal windows that showcases the movements; and the elite “Saliaz” surface treatment on the case elements, which combines mirror polishing and satin-brushing for sharp diamond-like facets. Minase is one of the smallest Japanese watchmakers, producing fewer than 500 complete timepieces annually. The most limited pieces are from the brand's Masterpiece collection, which feature exquisite lacquer dials by master craftsman Junichi Hakose, with traditional patterns hand-executed in the ancient Urushi lacquer technique.
Monta is a small brand based out of St. Louis, Missouri that has quickly risen in the ranks since its founding in 2016, developing a great reputation for producing watches with an elite level of finishing at their accessible price points. Along with the strong (albeit somewhat familiar) designs and their use of Swiss automatic movements, this creates a winning formula. The SkyQuest is Monta's sporty travel watch, with undeniable resemblance to the famous (and much harder to get) Rolex GMT-Master and housing a Sellita movement with a 56-hour power reserve.
A jointly developed project between Swiss watch entrepreneur Ben Küffer, former Breitling co-owner Ted Schneider, and retired NHL player Mark Streit, Norqain was founded in 2018. It has established itself fairly quickly and decisively as a player in the field of value-driven sports watches with proprietary movements. The movements are made in partnership with a Swiss movement-making firm called Kenissi, which was established as a subsidiary company by Tudor, and boast 70-hour power reserves as well as COSC chronometer certifications. Norqain’s primary collections include the inspiringly named Freedom and Independence lines, and more recently the mountaineering-inspired Adventure Neverest, which Norqain has used as a stage for some very innovative dial colors and textures.
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Chicago-based Oak & Oscar hit the scene in 2015 with the launch of the Burnham, a time-and-date model named for American Beaux-Arts architect Daniel Burnham, designed of many iconic Windy City skyscrapers. (Subsequent models have taken their names from other architects, like the Olmsted, pictured, and have included a two-register chronograph and a GMT.) The company’s own name comes from its team members’ love of good bourbon (“oak”) and the name of founder Chase Fancher’s dog, Oscar; dogs, particularly rescue dogs, play a large role in the brand’s mission statement, which includes donating a portion of sales to Chicago-area rescue dog charities. Oak & Oscar watches are hand-assembled, tested, and regulated in Chicago, with Swiss-made movements and mounted on U.S.-made Horween leather straps.
Founded in 2015 by former banking professional François Moreau, Reservoir brings a visually unique approach to displaying dial information. Time is displayed by a single retrograde hand with a jump-hour mechanism which is inspired by vintage measurement instruments with similar readouts. Whether it’s a watch for land, water, or air, this design language is prominent across each collection, giving the brand a very distinct identity. Reservoir calls La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland home and uses high-quality Swiss movements to pair with the signature designs.
Brand: Scurfa
Model featured: Diver One Titanium
In 2014, commercial saturation diver Paul Scurfield, frustrated by the inability of existing, so-called “professional” dive watches to hold up to the hard usage they faced in his profession, founded his own watch brand. A longtime watch enthusiast in addition to being a seasoned diver, Scurfield focused on creating a range of watches for divers that were not only tougher and more reliable than those produced by well-known luxury brands but also priced within reason for diving professionals. For $230, you can snap up the Diver One Titanium (pictured), which boasts a rare 500-meter water resistance, a helium release valve for use in a diving bell, a sapphire crystal and a high-degree of luminous material on the dial for legibility in the depths. The Swiss-made quartz Ronda caliber beats inside the 40mm case (which is also available in steel for $30 less).
Brand: Serica
Model featured: 5303-1
Serica is a French brand, founded in 2019 in a collaboration between the watch blog “Les Rhabilleurs'' and the WM Brown Project, established by sartorial expert and A Man & His Watch author Matt Hranek. Following up the company’s first release, a “Dirty Dozen”-style field watch called the W.W.W. William Brown Edition, is its first divers’ watch, the distinctly designed 5303 series. Its high-end bonafides include sunray finishing on the bezel, mirror polishing on the articulated lugs, and an aluminum and ceramic dive-scale bezel that also incorporates a countdown function. Serica tests the automatic Soprod Newton movements to plus/minus four seconds per day, which speaks to the watches’ performance as well as the founders’ attention to detail.
Looking back at some of our favorite microbrands that have come in for review, Traska is certainly in the conversation. Traska is a newer microbrand offering some of the coolest-looking pieces out there that certainly draw inspiration from classic designs but manage to offer it in a package that isn’t repetitive. One of the first models to catch the market's eye was the Summiteer in 2019, an everyday field watch with impressive specifications. In 2021, the brand unveiled some new offerings including some updates to its best-selling Freediver.
Brand: Vaer
Model featured: D5 Tropic USA Automatic
Founders Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook pooled their collective life savings to start Vaer because “we couldn’t afford the watches we liked and didn’t like the ones we could afford.” Based in Venice, California, Vaer released its first watches 2017. Designed and built with outdoor and sporting activities in mind, and adhering to the founders’ vision of “simple, well-built analog watches” for everyday wear, Vaer’s collection comprises two major pillars, one made up of dive watches like the D5 Tropic USA Automatic, pictured, and the other of military-influenced field watches, like the S5 Calendar Field, a homage to the World War II-era military-issue A-11 watch. Vaer watches offer several movement options, including Japanese quartz, Japanese solar-powered quartz, and, in the GMT model, a Swiss automatic Sellita SW330-2.
Vero is a Portland, Oregon-based microbrand that has carved out the casual "West Coast" look with its pieces, which also uphold a retro aesthetic. In their Portland facility, Vero produces its own dials and assemble all finished watches within its walls while offering regulated Swiss movements inside the cases. The Vero Ridge Trail is boldly designed and comes with a minty green dial.
Cameron Weiss, an entrepreneurial WOSTEP-trained watchmaker who had worked for Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, launched Weiss Watch Company in 2013. The initial 10 pieces of his first watch, the original Standard Issue Field Watch, were hand-finished and assembled in a makeshift workshop, in a walk-in closet at his home. Originally based in Los Angeles, the company now makes watches at a workshop in Nashville, Tennessee. Each watch is individually assembled by a Swiss-trained watchmaker, with its case, crown, and buckle all machined in-house from a single block of stainless steel. Weiss initially used Swiss movements in his watches but as of 2016, his timepieces contain the in-house-developed Caliber 1003, which is 95 percent American-made.
Brand: Yema
Model featured: Urban Traveller
Founded in France in 1948, Yema has had an up-and-down history in the watch world, with ownership changing several times over the years (including a stint in the 1980s when it was owned by Seiko). In 2005, under new French ownership, Yema returned to the scene after a long hiatus and began offering a vast range of watch styles, including the racing-inspired Rallygraf chronograph, the retro-futuristic LED models, and the Flygraf GMT models that emerged from a partnership with the French Air Force, one of Yema’s many projects in its role as partner of France’s Armed Forces. By far the most emblematic Yema watch is the Superman divers’ series, which first debuted in 1963 and which still boasts a loyal following. The Urban Traveller, above, stands out from other integrated sport-luxury timepieces with its handsome honeycomb dial and its in-house YEMA2000 automatic movement.
Brand: William Wood
Watch Featured Above: Valiant Black
Founded in London in 2016, William Wood Watches pays tribute to its namesake, founder Jonny Garret’s grandfather, who was a decorated 25-year veteran of the British Fire Service, with its use of upcycled firefighting materials in its watches. The crowns are capped with a medallion crafted from melted-down brass London Fire Brigade helmets from the 1920s. Among the variety of interchangeable straps and bracelets available are tough, supple rubber straps that have been hand-cut from fire hoses used more than 10 years by the U.K. Fire and Rescue Service, which still maintain a faint smokiness from their decade-plus of service. Other aesthetic nods to firefighting culture abound, including a checkered ring around the dials’ perimeter, in place of a traditional minute track, echoing the livery of a British fire engine; a double index at 12 o’clock that resembles the collar markings on the lapel of a U.K. Fire and Rescue Service Crew Manager, an applied vintage fire helmet above the logo, and the counterweight on the central seconds hand that takes the form of the chime inside a historical fire bell. William Wood Watches are offered with a choice of two different types of mechanical automatic movements, either a Japanese Seiko NH35 or, for a slight upcharge, a Swiss Sellita SW200. William Wood donates a percentage of the sales of each watch to firefighting charities, including the U.K.’s Fire Fighter Charity, which provides mental, physical and social support to the firefighting community, and the Australian Bushfire Relief Fund. In 2021, for the 20th anniversary of the 9/11 terror attacks, William Wood partnered with the Tunnel to Towers Foundation to auction off a unique edition of its Triumph Heat chronograph model to benefit the charitable organization, which raised $19,000 after an opening bid of $2,000.
Brand: Bausele
Watch Featured Above: OceanMoon II
Shop Their Collection Here
From the name, you might think that Bausele is a Swiss microbrand based in the (former?) watch-industry trade show capital of Basel. You’d be right about the Swiss part, but way off on the home base. “Bausele” is an abbreviation of “Beyond Australian Elements,” and refers to the unique design sense that Swiss watchmaking entrepreneur Christopher Hoppe, who moved to Sydney with his Australian wife and founded the brand in 2011, brings to the table with this Swiss-made, Australian-designed microbrand. Bausele’s flagship collection is the OceanMoon series of professional grade dive watches, outfitted with 200-meter water resistant steel anti magnetic cases on straps made of recycled ocean waste and containing Swiss automatic calibers. Among those “Australian elements” are the cases’ hollow glass crowns through which you can glimpse an actual living element of Australia — red earth from the Outback, sand — which allow the watch’s owner to literally carry a piece of Australia with them anywhere in the world. Bausele is the official watch of the centenary of the Royal Australian Air Force as well as several military corps and even the iconic Sydney Opera House.
Brand: Waldan
Watch Featured Above: Heritage Professional
Originally founded by Oscar Waldan in 1979, New York-based Waldan Watch Company is enjoying a renaissance under the guidance of Oscar’s son, Andrew Waldan, who revived the dormant brand during the challenging year of 2020. Thus far, Waldan consists of two distinctive sub-families within the flagship Heritage Collection: the dressy Professional, and the more casually colorful Sportline, which has a Nautilus-like lined-texture motif on the dials. All the watches feature steel cases with the thin, stepped, polished bezels typical of early Waldan models and knurled crowns. Most notably, they all feature a U.S.-made movements, namely the “Ameriquartz” caliber 70200, a quartz caliber developed and produced by Fine Timepiece Solutions (FTS) in Fountain Hills, Arizona that carries a five-year warranty. Also noteworthy at this price point (around $300) is Waldan’s use of sapphire crystals rather than mineral glass over the dials.
Brand: Studio Underd0g
Model featured above: Watermel0n Chronograph
London-based Studio Underd0g started out as the pet project of a restless University of Nottingham graduate, product designer Richard Benc, during 2020’s COVID-19 lockdowns. The “zero” replacing the letter “o” in his one-man brand’s name is a nod to its individualistic mission of making horology a little less “serious” and a bit more “playful.” The watches are distinguished by vibrant bright colorways on their degradé dials, and the names that derive from them, including the pink-and-green “WatermelOn'' model (pictured) as well as the black-and-white “Go0fy Panda” and mint-green-and-white “Mint Ch0c Chip.” The watches are all assembled in Great Britain and mounted on Epsom calfskin leather straps from The Strap Tailor, an artisanal shop also headquartered in London.Most notably, Studio Underd0g watches are equipped with hand-wound ST-1901 column-wheel chronograph calibers, which are made in China but based on the classical Swiss-made Venus Caliber 175. Each watch is inspected for accuracy and demagnetized before being shipped from the U.K. with its own individual “Report Card.” The first series from the young brand was priced at a very reasonable $475.
Brand: Kuoe
Watch Featured Above: Royal Smith 90-008
Kuoe was established in 2020 in the Japanese city of Kyoto. Its founder, Uchmua, who also serves as watch designer, was attending university in London a decade earlier when he discovered a shop that sold and repaired antique wristwatches and subsequently fell in love with their classical design and the accumulated history they represented. After several years working for another watch manufacturer, he ushered in the launch of Kuoe with its first timepiece, the vintage-influenced Old Smith 90-001. The Royal Smith models that followed represent Kuoe’s “premium” line, inspired by watches from the 1940s with rectangular cases, hand-applied Breguet numerals on the dials, and Japanese-made Miyota automatic movements inside, providing a high-beat frequency of 28,800 vph.
Brand: Trafford
Watch Featured Above: Crossroads
Based in Austin, TX and hailing from northern England, watch enthusiast Nathan Trafford worked in the creative end of the advertising business before the call of the watch industry moved him to found his own brand in 2020. Trafford’s passion for design and typography is evident in the brand’s flagship collection, called Crossroads, comprised of timepieces whose distinctive feature is the motif of a curved horizon line — in the sides of the rectangular steel case, on the rotor of the automatic Miyota movement, even on the buckle of the straps, which are made of Italian suede leather. The meticulously brushed dials are offered in an array of colors, many paying visual tribute to the scenery of Trafford’s adopted home of Texas.
Brand: Circula
Watch Featured Above: ProTrail Sand
Circula, a name referring to the circular shape of mechanical watch movements and their gears and wheels, traces its history all the way back to 1926, when the founding Huber family opened a watch and jewelry wholesale business in Pforzheim, one of Germany’s traditional horological centers. The brand as we know it today, which is currently run by Cornelius Huber, grandson of the founder, came into being in 1955. Then as now, Circula has specialized chiefly in purpose-built tool watches, like the DiveSport and AquaSport for divers, the AquaSport GMT for active travelers, and the ProTrail, a robust field watch with a sturdy, scratch-resistant antimagnetic case and a Swiss-made Sellita self-winding caliber.
Brand: Tornek Rayville
Watch Featured Above: TR-660
If Tornek-Rayville’s military-look dive watches look familiar, there’s a reason. The original models, sold exclusively to U.S. military clients, were actually heavily modified Fifty Fathoms watches, sourced from Swiss watchmaker Blancpain and re-branded by retailer Allan Tornek as a clever end-around to the “Buy American Act” of 1933, which required America’s armed forces to buy strictly from American brands. (Hence, “Tornek,” the retailer’s name, plus “Rayville,” a vocal anagram of Blancpain’s Swiss hometown of Villeret, or "Ville-Ray".) Entrepreneur Bill Yao, who had previously founded the tool-watch brand MKII, relaunched Tornek-Rayville in 2010, with a heavy emphasis on a reissued version of the most legendary model, the TR-900, which was worn by U.S. special forces during the Vietnam War. The TR-660 followed, offering another does of mid-’50s Fifty Fathoms DNA at a far more accessible price point, Modern Tornek-Rayvilles are made in Japan and contain the Seiko NE15 automatic movement.
Brand: Momentum
Watch Featured Above: Sea Quartz
Since 1980, the St. Moritz Watch Corp. of Vancouver, Canada, has been making sturdy and affordable sports watches under the Momentum brand. The flagship Sea Quartz divers’ watch has its origins slightly further back, when brand founder Simon Pennell originally introduced it as part of his earlier brand, Chronosport. The model, one of the first analog dive watches with a quartz caliber, is best known for its role in the iconic 1980s TV series Magnum, P.I., where it was worn for the first three seasons by star Tom Selleck. Today’s Sea Quartz models replicate the fondly remembered design of the original, with robust 300-meter water resistant cases and Swiss-made Ronda quartz movements.
Brand: ADPT
Watch Featured Above: Series 1 Dual-Time
The initials in this microbrand’s name stand for “All Day Purpose and Terrain,” which should be a tipoff that ADPT watches lean design-wise more into tool and sport than elegant luxury territory. Launched by online retailer and content platform Worn & Wound in 2017, and produced in collaboration with another boutique watch manufacturer, BOLDR Supply Co., the collection is fronted by the Series 1 three-handed models, based on the BOLDR field-watch platform and sporting titanium cases, equipped with an automatic movement from Seiko; and their GMT-enabled offshoot,s the Series 1 Dual Time, also with Seiko self-winding calibers. The military-style nylon straps are made in the U.S.A.
Brand: BeauBleu
Model Featured Above: Ecce Smalt
French designer Nicolas Ducoudert established BeauBleu in 2017, drawing upon his experience in the automotive and luxury goods industries to create the unique look of the company’s watches, identified by their circular-shaped hands that seem to float above the dial. BeauBleu watches are conceived, designed and assembled in Paris, and outfitted with mechanical automatic movements from Japan’s Miyota. The three main pillars include the Ecce Lys, with rose-gold-toned cases and grained dials; Ecce Smalt, defined by embossed blue dials with gradient effects; and Ecce Vesperal, with monochrome metallic-brushed cases and dials.
Brand: Cincinnati Watch Co.
Model Featured Above: Guild Mechanical
Founders Rick Bell and Mark Stegman founded Cincinnati Watch Company (originally a venture called Build Your Own Watch) in 2018 with a mission to bring the watchmaking trade back to their midwestern home city. Former AWCI executive director and WOSTEP-trained watchmaker Jordan Ficklin came aboard to help launch the company in 2020. The company assembles all its timepieces in-house, equipping them with movements from Switzerland and Japan. Its first timepiece was the Union Terminal Watch, whose design celebrates the historic train station in the “Queen City” that is also one of the United States’s icons of Art Deco architecture. Another historically inspired watch, the Guild Mechanical, pays tribute to another facet of Cincinnati’s horological past, the “Time Hill” guild hall that was once the home of the Gruen Watch Company.
Brand: Echo/Neutra
Model Featured Above: Averau 39 Moon Phase
Industrial designer Nicola Callegro and aerospace engineer Cristiano Quaglia — both watch aficionados from Italy — joined forces to create Echo/Neutra, via Kickstarter campaign, in 2019. Based in the Italian Dolomites, Echo/Neutra produces watches that pay tribute to the mountain range of their origin and specifically to the city of Cortina d’Ampezzo, host of the 1956 Winter Olympics. The Cortina collection, which consists of three-handers, chronographs, and GMTs, contains Swiss-made mechanical movements and features the emblem of the ‘56 games on the dial; the chronographs are powered by a hand-wound Sellita while the GMTs feature an automatic Soprod. Another popular collection, the Averau, is described as a “contemporary field watch” with an automatic Sellita caliber animating both the three-hand-date and double moon-phase models.
Brand: Islander
Watch Featured Above: Greenport
The house brand of New York online retailer Long Island Watch Co., Islander makes affordable everyday tool watches with (as you might expect from the name) an emphasis on diver styles. The collection is wide, and also includes classical pilot and field watches; many of the watches, which carry the names of Long Island communities such as Greenport, Manhasset, and Bridgehampton, include what the manufacturer calls “hallmarks of quality” found in more expensive brands, including sapphire crystals, screw-down crowns, ceramic inserts for the rotating dive-scale bezels, and mechanical self-winding movements from the likes of Seiko and Miyota.
Brand: Isotope
Model Featured Above: Hydrium Pro NSFW Purple
Isotope Watches, founded in 2016 by Portuguese immigrant Jose Miranda, operates out of the town of Henfield, England and makes its watches in Switzerland. Miranda, a lifelong watch enthusiast who nevertheless sold many of his personal watches to fund his brand, took inspiration from revolutionary watch concepts like the IWC Pallweber and Gérald Genta’s early jumping-hour watches, as well as the designs of the Art Deco “Streamline Moderne” era. This influence is still evident in today’s Isotope timepieces, like the Hydrium series of dive watches and the Old Radium models that take inspiration from 1940s pilot’s watches.
Brand: Ollech & Wajs
Watch Featured Above: M-110
One of the very few Swiss watch brands based in Zurich, Ollech & Wajs traces its history all the way back to 1956. It was the first Swiss watchmaker to make a dive watch water-resistant to 1,000 meters and the first to do direct-to-consumer mail-order business; its tool watches were worn by military troops during the Vietnam War and by NASA scientists during the Space race. After many decades of such milestones, the founding families sold the company to its current owner in 2017. The watches produced by the brand — like the motorsport-inspired Rallychron, the Ocean Graph dive watch with decompression-scale bezel, and the P-104 pilots’ model with slide-rule functionality — channel the spirit of their vintage ancestors, and are all fitted with automatic movements from ETA and Soprod; OW is one of the rare Swiss makers that has never put a quartz movement in a watch.
Brand: Paulin
Watch Featured Above: Ohno Automatic
Scotland-based Paulin, launched in 2013, assembles all of its watches at its workshop in Glasgow, and takes great pride in the transparency it offers to prospective buyers on the sources of the brand’s parts. The watches are truly a global collaboration: anodized aluminum dials made in Germany ands finished in the U.K., cases and crystals from China, hands from India, movements from Switzerland and Japan, straps from a 70-year-old family tannery in Germany. Paulin watches are notable for bold colors and playful designs, like the Ohno Automatic featured above, which is powered by a Swiss-made La Joux-Perret caliber and whose dial features a visual tribute to the free-form typography of California’s Ohno type foundry, a Paulin partner.
Brand: Straum
Model Featured Above: Jan Mayen Glacier White
Oslo-based Straum was the brainchild of two Norwegian students at the Oslo School of Architecture and Design, with a shared appreciation of outdoorsy activities and talent for digital CAD prototyping. Their first entrepreneurial project, an experimental piece of camera equipment, was shelved in favor of making a new line of watches inspired by the Norwegian wilderness and its natural wonders. The flagship Jan Mayen collection, accordingly, features dials with a cracked pattern evocative of the landscape of the Beerenberg volcano; previous models, like the sold-out Opphav, had rippled-texture dials that called to mind the ridges and valleys of the nation’s glaciers.
Brand: Xeric
Model Featured Above: Scrambler
Watch collector and re-seller Mitch Greenblatt teamed with his entrepreneurial brother Andrew to form the e-commerce business Watchismo in 2007. After several successful years, the brothers teamed with a designer Daniel Hunsaker to form their own watch brand, Xeric, which since its founding in 2013 has launched 20 successful Kickstarter campaigns for its products — including the most-funded timepiece in the platform’s history. With a mandate to “make time fun again,” Xeric watches are made in California and wildly unconventional in design and mechanics, with quirky complications like wandering hour displays, orbiting moon-phase hands, and linear chronograph indications echoing the look of gauges on a race car dashboard, as on the popular Halograph models. Japan’s Miyota supplies most of the movements, which range from quartz to automatic to a sub-$2,000 tourbillon.
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Leaving out a few significant US makers. GSD (Greg Stevens Design) RGM (Roland G Murphy) Frett Clock Works and Richard Paige. Not sure how you include a brand like Islander that manufactures way beyond the microbrand quantities and does virtually nothing other than design in house.
Hello, what is your thoughts of Jerome Lemars automatic watch
Hi what are your thoughts of jerome lemars watch. Thank you
Great reading!
There are some microbrands from Euroupe, that it would great to gear you take on.
Italay
Tecnotempo
Venezianico
Norway
There are some brands in Euroupe that I would lkike to know more about, and it would be great to hear your take on them.
Italy
Tecnotempo
Venezianico
Norway
DeSanders Voyage GMT
There are some brands in Euroupe that I would lkike to know more about, and it would be great to hear your take on them.
Italy
Tecnotempo
Venezianico
Norway
DeSanders Voyage GMT
Thanks for the information. Has anyone evaluated or seen the MMI CuttleChron? Or MMI as a watch company? I am intrigued by their design. Just wanted to know if others have any opinions. Thanks.
What is your opinion about second hand wrist watches ? Someone is offering me an srpe93 one year old for 250 eu, looks vgd ? New 470 eu. Appreciate your opinion.
Christopher Ward is not a MicroBrand. Also, any thoughts on Phoibos?
what do you think about Argos watch company from india
Please consider Bangalore Watch Company also
Please have a look at Bangalore Watch Company aswell
Hi Teddy, missing from your list is Henry Archer. Suggest you give them a look.
I am curious, when did the definition of “microbrand” become cloudy? Deep Blue, St. Mortiz, Spinnaker, Vaer, Momentum, Yema, Christopher Ward are global brands with employees in the double digits.
Mercer closed up almost 3 years ago.
MKII and Tornek Rayville are the same brand/owner/employee’s. I am not sure why this is listed separately.
If there was some research done I am sure there are some worthy microbrands who could filled those voids.
It would be nice to have a comparison between these microbrands as to movement/quality/reliability/cost. This article is more just a blurb but no criticisms.
No love for Nivada Grenchen??
No love for Nivada Grenchen??
Great article! Please, check LEBOND. Architect designed timepieces!
Teddy ~ marvelous! Informative! And eye-catching.
Unfortunately, my two MB’s didn’t make your video list. I have Maen, Manhattan 37 [salmon color face] & DuFane Waterloo. Both wonderfully designed and executed. As typical for MB’s, quite cost-effective. They’re both wonderful to wear and keeptime beautifully.
Teddy ~ marvelous! Informative! And eye-catching.
Unfortunately, my two MB’s didn’t make your video list. I have Maen, Manhattan 37 [salmon color face] & DuFane Waterloo. Both wonderfully designed and executed. As typical for MB’s, quite cost-effective. They’re both wonderful to wear and keeptime beautifully.
Hey Teddy, what are your thoughts about Danish designed Henry Archer watches?
Thank you for helping me to understand what a Microbrand actually is! For me, I will be looking into Astor & Banks, Melbourne, and Orion.
I bought the Sternglas Haburg Edition Neuwerk, and it is quickly becoming my favorite watch. Definite shoutout to the quality and affordability of Sternglas!
An excellent article Teddy ! Thank you for posting. I discovered several brands that I was not aware of and learned more about those who I knew in name only ! Best! Russ Dejulio Pittsburgh PA
Hi Teddy & Co., great article and information here! Wishing all a very happy new year.
Most of these watch look substantially similar to the point of monotony. You should have some more unusual watches on the list like:
https://www.radcliffewatches.com/
https://angleswatches.com/
https://luckyharveywatch.com/
https://azimuthwatch.com/
Mr. Jones watches
At least these guys are making some effort to be unique