Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Review: Tudor's Best Dive Watch Yet?

The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy was released at this year's Watches & Wonders to nothing short of acclaim by enthusiasts. Not just a fresh color, this is a redesigned Tudor Black Bay 58, essentially from top to bottom. What you’re looking at is the next generation of everybody’s favorite Black Bay size, and it debuts in a color you simply cannot ignore, and one tied to Tudor history.

The Burgundy Black Bay 58 took the burgundy color usage of Black Bays from the past while leaning into the bright color scheme much more boldly than before. Rather than just adding another bezel color, Tudor decided to make the whole dial and front of the case a study in this shade of red. Where the past few years have seen Tudor experiment with satin-finished dials in its hardcore sports watches, from the Pelagos to the Black Bay 54, the 58 range has been steadfast in its use of matte or textured dial surfaces. That all changed with this iteration, as we get a punchy, sunburst burgundy dial color. You might think this is an infusion of modernity in a model known to harken back to the past, but it isn’t. It’s just harkening to a different moment in time – to a watch that Tudor never technically released.

Indeed, that would be a certain 1990s Tudor Submariner Ref. 79190 prototype that had a similar red bezel/red dial combination. And while that watch never made it to the production stage, it heavily influenced the brand’s decision when it released the very first Black Bay with a burgundy bezel. 

Tudor Black Bay 58 Context

The Black Bay 58 has been the go-to vintage-inspired Tudor dive watch ever since it was introduced back in 2018. Needless to say, it has been a hit ever since then, with several iterations coming along. There is the very popular blue model as well as the gilt black iteration, both of which are some of the most popular divers out there in the category. Of course, that is not to say that the bronze, silver, and gold versions are not beloved as they certainly are (just in a more niche type of way). And, of course, there was the Black Bay 58 GMT, which dropped in 2024.

The collection has slowly iterated and improved over the years as all great watches tend to. We have seen new clasps with the T-Fit micro-adjustment, and the Black Bay 58 GMT received a Master Chronometer certification, which was a first for a 39mm watch in the family. So, naturally, we figured we would see these upgrades trickle their way down to the Black Bay 58 — which is exactly what we’ve gotten here. Burgundy is not a theme that we can say is new for Tudor, as the company has used the color since the beginning of the Black Bay’s story, with the initial 41mm Ref. 79220 showcasing the classic burgundy bezel. Then came the Black Bay 41 two years ago with an updated case. But still, as I mentioned earlier,  it was a 1990s Tudor Submariner never released to the public that demonstrated the bezel and dial combo in matching form.

Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Case and Bracelet

The Tudor Black Bay 58 has some changes when compared to previous versions, starting with both the case and bracelet. The case measures 39mm wide and 11.7mm thick with a 47.2mm lug-to-lug measurement (200 meters of water resistance) which is just about .2mm slimmer due to the new movement, which I will get into a little later. The stainless steel case has alternating brushed and polished finishes while the unidirectional bezel is outfitted with an anodized aluminum insert. The watch also has a redesigned crown with a knurling similar to the Tudor Subs of old, which is also rendered smaller than the original BB58 crown was. It is a change similarly deployed on the updated Black Bay 41 diver, and I really like how it breathes an air of maturity into the watch.

One of the big changes, however, is that five-link bracelet, which is now offered for the first time on a Black Bay 58. This attractive bracelet looks and feels excellent, which shouldn’t be a surprise to anyone. What’s even better is Tudor’s T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp, which allows for an easy adjustment of up to 8.5mm. In addition to the five-link bracelet, the watch also comes on the traditional riveted three-link style as well as a rubber strap option. Fortunately, they all have the T-Fit system, so you have that flexibility no matter which you choose. That said, it’s hard to argue with just how attractive the Black Bay 58 Burgundy is on the five-link bracelet.

Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Dial

Without a doubt, this is one of the most beautiful dials from Tudor in recent memory. The red is rich and vibrant as it is but it really shines when hit with light against that sunray finish. It’s beautiful in photos, but you need to see it in person to get a real idea. The rest of the dial is fairly straightforward, with applied hour indices in a silver color and that triangle at 12 o’clock which hearkens back to the vintage Submariner.

The "Snowflake" hour hand and pencil minute hand are really nice and legible, while the surprising addition of the lollipop seconds hand is also appreciated. I have to give Tudor credit for cleaning up the dial a bit, with just two lines of text above 6 o’clock as opposed to three.

The New Movement

A brand-new movement is the other big story coming out of this Black Bay 58. Gone is the Chronometer Certified MT-5402, making way for the METAS Certified Master Chronometer MT5400-U movement. The MT-5400 has been used in the Black Bay 54, but the "U" distinction makes it the METAS variation. What exactly does that mean? Well, to be Master Chronometer Certified, a movement must: be accurate to 0/+5 seconds per day, be tested at two temperatures and six positions, and at 100% and 33% power reserve. It must also live up to both its stated water resistance (200 meters, in this case) and its stated power reserve (65 hours, in this case) and display antimagnetic resistance  to 15,000 gauss.

As for specs, it operates at 4 Hz and has a 65-hour power reserve. The MT5400-U also boasts hacking seconds, a silicon hairspring, and 27 jewels.

Final Thoughts

The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy is one of my favorite watches from the brand, not because it is the safest choice that will please the largest swath of consumers. Rather, it embraces a bold aesthetic that actually makes a statement rather than blending in with the crowd. The modern upgrades and improvements help take it over the top as one of Tudor’s most compelling and thoughtful dive watches. As for price, it is $4,625 on a rubber strap, $4,850 on a three-link bracelet, and $4,975 on the five-link bracelet. You can learn more at tudorwatch.com