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The world of high-end watches is a bit mysterious, and that is largely by design. Flagship pieces are produced in limited quantities, and pricing generally falls into the "contact us for details" realm for many of the most expensive watch brands. New mechanical innovations make headlines and push the industry and its trends forward, but this comes at a cost, with the best in the game building a certain reputation by doing this consistently over the course of generations. The ultimate value that buyers and enthusiasts will perceive in these watches is created in time, and it goes without saying that this value is quite subjective in nature.
There are a multitude of details that become more apparent, and are even demanded, at the higher end of watchmaking, however. There are vast differences in materials, finishing techniques, and even mechanical aspects such as an uncommon escapement design or power reserve delivery that separate the very top brands from what you might find at your local jeweler. Understanding the world’s most expensive brands will mean having a grasp on these differences. This is the kind of knowledge that will also go a long way in appreciating watchmaking as the art form that it is.
As great art is more than some canvas over a wood frame, a mechanical watch is far more than some screws, springs, and gears. Within a watch, each of these components offer the watchmaker an opportunity for creative expression in the kinds of materials they chose to use, the finishes they employ, and beyond that, the layout and manner by which they bring it to life. And all that before you even get to the most visible things like a dial and hands. There are endless possibilities here, and as the mechanical watch movement has had literally centuries of development, it’s impressive to witness the heights still being achieved to keep things interesting.
In breaking down some of the most expensive and exclusive watch brands on the planet, we’ll take a look at how they got that way, and explore why their offerings tip the hefty end of the scales. To do this, we’ll delineate the brands into a few categories, and examine what each brings to the table. This list is not comprehensive, but what it will do is provide a clear picture of the landscape of brands operating at the very pinnacle of the art.
Legacy brands are in many ways defined by their history, and while that history sets the tone for their overall trajectory, it doesn’t have to mean being stuck in the past. Indeed, some of the brands in this category enjoy more than a century of history, and as we’ll see, some are still at the cutting edge of innovation. Broadly speaking, there are a number of through lines that connect these brands in terms of overall build quality, finishing techniques, and vertical production.
In watch enthusiast circles there exists what is referred to as the "Holy Trinity" of brands, consisting of Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. Each has been around for well over a century (multiple, in the case of Vacheron Constantin), and each have accounted for some of the most important horological creations in history, contributing to the state of the industry as it stands today. So it's no surprise to find these names near the top of the list of the most expensive watch brands.
Patek Philippe has a storied history since its founding in 1839, and has been owned by the Stern family since 1932, making it the oldest family-owned independent watchmaker in Geneva. Patek is known for making bespoke timepieces for well heeled clients, and when those watches come to auction, prices can set records. For instance, the Henry Graves Jr. Supercomplication, a commissioned pocket watch that took eight years to produce, sold for $24M in 2014, while more recently, the one-off Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 brought in over $31M for charity when it was auctioned in 2019. This is also the most expensive watch ever sold.
Patek Philippe was the first brand to place a perpetual calendar complication within the confines of a wristwatch in 1925, and it’s a feature the maison has become synonymous with in the years since. Particularly when paired with a chronograph. These Perpetual Calendar Chronographs include some of the brand’s most iconic references, and if you can find one of these in a unique metal, you’re pretty much guaranteed to be paying well into the seven figures. Perhaps the ultimate example is the Reference 1518 (the first PPC from the brand) in steel, of which only four were produced. This watch selling for $20M further cements the modern lineage of the same set of complications (ref. 5270) as one of the most desirable modern watches from the brand.
The most expensive Patek Philippe watch ever sold: $31,000,000 for the Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010
The most expensive Patek Philippe current production watch: $2,138,940 for the Grand Complication 6002R-001
Patek Philippe Cost of Entry: The Twenty~4 starts at $19,632, a base model Aquanaut in steel is just shy of $30,000, but good luck getting one at retail. As for Patek's iconic dress-watch collection, the Calatrava starts at around $40,000. Things rapidly approach six (and seven) figures from there.
Audemars Piguet may be the youngest member of the "Holy Trinity," but it still dates back to 1875, and if anything, this is the brand pushingthe most horological innovation of the bunch. The modern Audemars Piguet is known for the Royal Oak, and while that watch began life in relatively simple time-and-date form, it’s played host to some of the brand’s most impressive movements in the decades since it was introduced. Bringing an ultra-thin version of the perpetual calendar into the Royal Oak has been a calling card, and resulted in some of AP's most iconic watches to date, culminating in the RD#2, a 6.3mm thick Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, a watch that trades hands for roughly $250,000 these days.
But that’s really where things begin for the brand in terms of high horology. The Research & Development series boasts AP's full skill set as a manufacturer, and includes the RD#4, an ultra-complication that brings 23 complications (including a grand sonnerie) and 17 technical devices to bear in an impressive 42mm frame. Audemars Piguet has a history of highly complicated timepieces, including pocket watches, and this is a showcase of that talent. The near $2M price tag is also a testament to just how much knowhow is on display here. And we can’t leave out the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon "Spider-Man" watch that was auctioned for about $6.2 million.
Most Expensive Audemars Piguet Ever Sold: $6.2 million for the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon "Spider-Man"
Most Expensive Audemars Piguet Current Production: ~$1.1 for the million Royal Oak Grande Complication
Audemars Piguet Cost Of Entry: For those looking at a starter Audemars Piguet, you’ve got the base Code 11.59, which goes $27,000, and the Royal Oak Offshore in steel, which starts at just around $28,000 while the classic Royal Oak starts at $30,000 — but, again, good luck at getting one for retail.
The oldest brand on this list, Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755, and enjoys an uninterrupted watchmaking history in that time. The brand enjoys a broad skillset, from the dazzling "Kallista," which was priced at $5M when it was built in 1979 (more recent valuations would place it around $15M today); to the more recent Solaria Ultra Grand Complication La Première, which features an astonishing 41 complications, and an undisclosed price. If that isn’t enough, Vacheron made a pocketwatch called the Berkley Grand Complication, with 63 complications.
Watchmaking at the grandest of scales is kind in this company's blood, it would seem. Even with nothing left to prove, Vacheron Constantin continues to push boundaries in this regard, and that’s not limited to wrist- and pocket-sized watches. The recently revealed the La Quête Du Temps Clock, complete with Automaton, comprising 6,293 mechanical components, would need its own room to be properly displayed. As for the price? There isn’t one. This will go on display at the Louvre, and a bigger flex I can’t imagine.
Most Expensive Vacheron Constantin Ever Sold: $2.7 million for the Vacheron Constantin King Fouad I No. 402833
Most Expensive Vacheron Constantin current production: ~$900,000 For the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface
Vacheron Constantin Cost of Entry: The cost of entry for Vacheron Constantin is just about $13,700 for a steel model in the Fifty-Six family. Some of the trendier watches like the Overseas start just north of $25,000 for a steel model while precious-metal high-complications like the perpetual calendar cross the $200,000 mark.
Okay, so A. Lange & Söhne is not formally a part of the "Holy Trinity," but it certainly deserves a callout in this category for its contributions to modern high-end watchmaking. When the original Datograph was revealed in 1999, it became a watershed moment for many luxury brands content in using existing calibers in their flagship complicated timepieces. The movement in the Datograph, the hand-wound L951.1, was a revelation that ended up pushing the likes of Patek Philippe toward making its own similar calibers (which had previously been Lemania-based).
In the years since, A. Lange & Söhne has not only continued to develop its own highly unique, classical style, but it also hasn’t slowed down in creating bespoke movements to power these designs. This is a brand that has mastered the art of the grand complication, all while incorporating old-school watchmaking techniques, from a fusee-and-chain constant-force mechanism, to chiming devices appearing alongside digital readouts. These are beautiful, and often unexpected designs, and all receive the same level of hand finishing across their German Silver bridges and balance cocks. As a result, prices quickly run deep into the six figures.
Most Expensive A. Lange & Söhne Ever Sold: $1.25 million for a unique 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition” Ref. 414.047 in 18k White Gold
Most Expensive A. Lange & Söhne Current Production: $2.6 million for the 1815 Grand Complication
A. Lange & Söhne Cost of Entry: Prices start at just around $26,100 for the Saxonia Thin in 750 white gold.
Moving to the Independent brand scene, we find a slightly different complexion of characters exercising a level of creativity not entirely bound by history. As a result, the watches being produced here are generally more expressive, and less risk-averse. That also means that they are susceptible to jumping in on trends with fewer barriers, which could be a positive or a negative in the long run, depending on how they age. Collectors gravitate towards these brands for their originality, and of course, their impressive degree of mechanical artistry.
This category within the space of the most expensive watch brands is seeing an increase in attention from beyond just the enthusiast spaces that they cater to, and when things work for these brands, they can exert an influence felt by even the legacy brands listed above. That influence could potentially shape future generations of watchmakers and long-term trends that become folded into history itself. Oh, and these are the most fun brands to follow, even if they are far from accessible.
François-Paul Journe is a classically trained watchmaker who began creating bespoke timepieces in his workshop in 1985. His vision of contemporary watchmaking quickly took root, and would go on to define an unmistakable aesthetic over the following generations. These are low-volume creations that aren’t afraid to tackle delicate and highly complicated concepts, such as resonance, and the results regularly achieve millions of dollars when they cross auction blocks.
Today, Journe operates out of a Geneva-based atelier and still produces highly unique, and highly complicated watches in low volume. This is another brand known to produce one-off commissions, and sometimes for a good cause, such as the Only Watch auctions, where its pièces uniques fetch incredible sums of money, from the Chronomètre Bleu Furtif that sold in 2024 for $2.2M, or the Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue (which tells the time via gloved hand) that sold for $4.5M in 2021.
Most Expensive F.P. Journe Ever Sold: $8.36 million for the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93”
Most Expensive F.P. Journe Current Production: $525,000 for the Tourbillon Souverain Joaillerie Diamants - Ref. TVJ
F.P. Journe Cost of Entry: Prices start at $16,700 for the Élégante 40
De Bethune is a relatively young brand, founded in 2002 by Denis Flageollet (a fourth- generation master watchmaker) and David Zanetta, with an utterly unique take on modern watchmaking through traditional horological craftsmanship. The result is a collection of watches that defy easy explanation. These are watches that somehow blend the design of the dial, the case, and the movement into one cohesive set of forms and textures. It’s less about any crazy complications at work, and more about the form as a whole. Among the signature features of a De Bethune case are the articulating lugs that form around the wrist.
Another big part of the experience with De Bethune are the textures and materials, which give way to some exotic colorways that bring a new character to these designs. The emblematic DB28 collection has vibrant blue, purple, and even yellow variations, with prices that quickly go into six-figure territory. Some even feature unique complications like a jumping GMT, and a diver with button-activated lighting built directly into the case — bonus points for the light feature being entirely mechanical. These are the kind of innovations that make this such a fun category of brand to follow.
Most Expensive De Bethune Ever Sold: $1.3 million for the Kind of Magic for Only Watch
Most Expensive De Bethune Current Production: $353,220 for the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire
De Bethune Cost of Entry: With one of the higher starting price, you can get into De Bethune at just around $56,700 for the DB27 Titan Hawk V2.
Greubel Forsey is named for its two founders, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, both watchmakers by trade, and both obsessive about the smallest details. They are also keenly aware of the importance around preserving the handmade aspect of the craft, and to this day the brand produces a Hand Made collection that is currently on its second iteration. Nearly every single piece of these watches are made and finished by hand, and as you might imagine, that takes a lot of hours. So many that only a few are produced each year. The first series was priced at CHF 900,000, while the second comes in at $785,000.
The brand produces other high-end watches, and the level of detail found in the finishing is second to none. The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture, a personal favorite, boasts a convex conical frustrum-shaped case (think the shape of a Pringle chip) and a highly dimensional movement that draws you directly into the dial. The finishes and the architecture itself are a world unto themselves, and it’s got a price to match, at roughly $500,000. These watches are a unique fusion of modern concepts and traditional watchmaking dialed up to 11.
Some of The Most Expensive Greubel Forsey watches: The Greubel Forsey Art Piece 1 is worth north of $2 million and theInvention Piece 2 fetched just shy of $1.5 million at auction
Greubel Forsey Cost of Entry: $240,000 for the Balancier Convexe S²
MB&F, or Max Büsser and Friends, is one of the highest-profile of the most expensive watch brands in this space, and that is owed to its collaborative nature, creative fortitude, and groundbreaking series of watches called Horological Machines. These are watches that challenge every preconceived notion you may have had about watches, and turn them on their head. The cases are anything but round, looking to retro sci-fi cultural touchstones of the 1960s and ‘70s, these watches are generally themed around unconventional sources of inspiration. Each requires its own bespoke movement to fit the shape of the case, and to power the unusual displays. As a result, Horological Machines are often priced well into the six figures.
In an attempt to tackle more conventional case shapes with an equal amount of creative gusto, the brand introduced a new collection called Legacy Machines in 2011. The cases may have been round, but everything else broke new ground in some fashion. These watches now encompass an impressive array of their own unique and sometimes highly complicated movements, such as the Legacy Machine Perpetual, with a brilliantly designed movement creating one of the most dynamic and energetic dials you’re likely to come across, all priced around $200,000.
Some of the Most Expensive MB&F watches: $624,564 for the HM10 "Bulldog," which was sold at auction in 2021, theHM9-SV White Gold Blue with a price of $490,000
MB&F Cost of Entry: $76,000 for the SP One Rose Gold
Richard Mille has become a cultural phenomenon thanks to its presence in many high- profile sporting events. And by presence, I mean literally "taking part in." These watches have been worn during peak athletic performances by the likes of Yohan Blake (gold medalist Olympic sprinter), Rafael Nadal (tennis player), and Bubba Watson (golfer). These watches work in these environments because of their extreme ergonomics and shock resistance. Thanks to the use of exotic manufacturing techniques with carbon and titanium, these watches are feather-light, and extremely durable in nature. This also makes them exceptionally expensive.
Richard Mille watches are extreme in every sense of the word. The brand has a highly unique aesthetic that generally involves cushion cases with entirely openworked dials and movements, making for a single cohesive architectural structure. Its collaboration with Ferrari, for instance, resulted in the UP-01, the world’s thinnest watch (at the time of release) at a mere 1.75mm thick. The price? A cool $1.88M.
Most Expensive Richard Mille Ever Sold: $6.6 million for the RM 52-01 Skull Tourbillon “Vanitas Vanitatum”
Most Expensive Richard Mille Current Production: $2.25 million for the RM 75-01 Flying Tourbillon Sapphire Pink
Richard Mille Cost of Entry: $111,000 for the RM 07-01 Automatic Winding
Moving into watchmakers, we enter a new, far more personal territory in the most expensive watch brands. These are watches made by individuals, and often necessitate a personal relationship to get any kind of access to. Naturally, that makes the watches themselves a very premium product, and at the end of the day, it’s more than just a watch, it’s a relationship, and even a stewardship. Some of these watchmakers have a history as apprentices with other master watchmakers, such as Roger W. Smith, who worked under George Daniels prior to his death. Others, such as Philippe Dufour, struck out on their own after a brief stint with legacy brands.
The below names provide a look at three different generations currently operating, and it’s a quickly growing field, with young watchmakers looking to make a name for themselves. Breaking through in this category is exceptionally difficult, however, and requires a deft understanding of client relations, while also honing a unique vision that will serve as a foundation for generations. Each of the names below have managed exactly that. Also note that I have provided the most expensive models sold from these watchmakers but given the extremely small production numbers and hush-hush marketing practices, the current production specs won't be included.
Image by Phillips
Rexhep Rexhepi is the youngest of these watchmakers, and is the founder of the brand Akrivia, where he first began making watches of his own vision. By 2018, Rexhepi took the step of making his first watch to bear his own name, the Chronomètre Contemporain I (an example of which sold at auction in 2023 for nearly $1M). The watch features a restrained aesthetic marked by confident details at the hour markers and hand set, with a truly stunning movement finished to a very high degree. The symmetrical layout of the movement has become a calling card of sorts, while the case and dial have undergone a different kind of evolution.
Image by Phillips
At present, Rexhepi is still producing watches under the Akrivia brand, allowing work to be done in parallel. The latest expression of his design language can be found in the Chronomètre Antimagnétique, which gets a stepped case, and a more expressive dial design that veers into instrument territory. Here, the movement itself has also taken a sublime step forward while maintaining the signature symmetry. The first example was built for the Only Watch auction, and realized $2.3M for charity. I expect (hope) to see this concept further fleshed out in a new collection bearing the same name.
Most Expensive Rexhep Rexhepi Ever Sold: $2.3 million for the Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch
Moving up a generation, Roger W. Smith OBE is a British watchmaker working on the Isle of Man. Smith was famously the apprentice of the great George Daniels, the inventor of the co-axial escapement that you can find at work in many Omega watches today. Daniels had a wide breadth of work, and his know-how lives on in Smith, who continues the tradition of truly handmade watches. Gears and screws are all cut in-house to suit a single purpose. There is no scale production happening here.
Smith works in series for his designs, each an iteration and further evolution of what came before, usually adding in complications. There are classic design motifs at work, from the dial and case, to small details like the hands. Every component feels perfectly born from a singular vision, and it should come as no surprise that the result feels highly unique to Smith, even with the classic cues in play. Due to their highly bespoke nature, these watches start well into six figure territory, and quickly scale from there.
Most Expensive Roger W. Smith Ever Sold: $4.9 million for the "Pocket Watch No. 2"
Philippe Dufour is seen in many circles as the greatest living watchmaker still practicing his craft. Though in his age, his daughter, Danièla is being positioned as a successor, and being trained in the same methods employed by Philippe himself. With Dufour watches, it’s all about the details. Every surface and every curve is finished to extraordinary degree, all by hand, and with the use of old-world tools to ensure a luster rarely seen on anything new to this world. As wholly brilliant as the finishing is, Dufour is also quite capable of creating high-complications with the same degree of attention.
At a glance, Dufour watches may appear rather simple, but there are brilliant concepts at work within. The Duality, for instance, uses two balance wheels (regulating the time keeping), and a single going train (delivering power from the mainspring), all connected via differential (averaging out the beat rate of the dual balances). Very few of these watches were ever produced, and when they come up at auction, you can rest assured that the bids will quickly reach the millions. By sheer rarity and desirability alone, Dufour easily stands as one of the most expensive watch brands.
Most Expensive Philippe Dufour Ever Sold: $7.63 million for the Grande & Petite Sonnerie
As a brief aside, there is another category of the most expensive watch brands worth mentioning here, and that is Hyper Luxury. These brands aren’t easily categorized into one of the above for a variety of reasons, but are still producing wildly expensive and/or exclusive watches for their clientele. These watches are less about heritage and traditional watchmaking, and more about making a statement, and could thus be considered in a similar vein to jewelry.
These are brands that scratch a very different itch, though there can be a level of horological ingenuity at work underneath. Very different boundaries are being pushed here, and as a result, we come to a greater understanding of the space as a whole, sometimes in wildly spectacular fashion.
Jacob & Co. was created by jeweler Jacob Arabo in 1986, and while the brand has gone through several iterations during that time, at the present, it is known for its penchant for the dramatic. Large exhibition crystals frame expansive and dimensional dials that often incorporate movements, precious metals, and gems or diamonds. These are watches that demand an immediate reaction, and as they’ve grown, so too has their creative use of complications.
These days, Jacob & Co. is pushing its use of materials, sometimes crafting entire movement pieces in exotic and unexpected materials. Its collaboration with Bugatti has resulted in watches that recreate the famous W16 engine in sapphire, and when you frame the whole thing in precious gems, the price can get upwards of $800,000. These might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but there’s no denying the sheer exuberance and creativity on display.
Most Expensive Jacob & Co. Watch: $20 million for the Billionaire Timeless Treasure
Jacob & Co. Cost Of Entry: $26,000 for the Epic X Bridges
Graff produces watches that just as easily qualify as jewelry thanks to their extensive use of diamonds. The dial, case, and strap are all fair game when it comes to gem-setting for Graff, and the brand takes full advantage of the palette. High-quality stones and the sheer volume of them can lead to incredibly expensive models, such as the Tilda’s Bow Diamond Watches, which range from $226,000, to $382,000. The movement at work within doesn’t really matter here, though it is technically still a watch that tells time.
These watches are prized for a different kind of artistry, and in the world of jewelry, that comes down to immaculate gem setting, and unique designs upon which they can be set. It is here that Graff makes a name for itself amongst the most expensive watch brands, with expressive designs that feel woven by stone, and that’s a different kind of magic, but one that pulls at the heart (and wallet) strings all the same.
Most Expensive Graff Watch: $55 million for the Diamonds Hallucination
Graff Cost of Entry: $11,600 for the Eclipse
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3 Comments
Great article!
No voutilainen?
No Breguet?