Bulova Jet Star Review: Retro Design Meets Cutting-Edge Precision

The Bulova Jet Star is one of those watches that leaves no room for doubt as to the decade from which its distinctive design originates. Revived in 2023 to commemorate the original's 50th anniversary, in a trio of diverse colorways, all the modern Jet Star models vibe “‘70s throwback” in a major way, with their unconventional, turtle-shaped cases and boldly colorful dials. However, they’re also very avant-garde in ways that their predecessors simply weren’t able to be, particularly in their use of Bulova’s high-frequency Precisionist calibers, their elevated level of finishing, and the almost three-dimensional degradé effect enhancing their dials. Scroll down for a closer look at each of the 50th anniversary Bulova Jet Star watches.

Bulova Jet Star Case And Bracelet

The modern Jet Star case is more angular and multifaceted than the curvilinear “turtle” shape of its 1970s predecessor. Strictly speaking, the case is octagonally shaped and topped with a round bezel that hugs the domed sapphire crystal. Measuring 40mm in diameter, approximately 45mm lug to lug, and 12.5mm thick, it boasts an array of polished and brushed finishes that accentuate those multiple, subtle edges and surfaces and lend the Jet Star an air of luxury in addition to its unmistakable retro charm. The lugs themselves are relatively short, with a 20mm lug width to accommodate the bracelet (on the two steel versions) or strap (on the gold-tone model and the steel limited edition). The crown is understated, with fluted sides, and the sapphire crystal over the vibrant dials is domed in period-appropriate fashion.

The bracelet is also more complex (and, it should go without saying, more meticulously finished) than the ‘70s version: two rows of thin rectangular links on the outer edges, with two interior rows of more squared links, all held together by central “double H”-shaped links, for lack of a better descriptor. The supple design catches light in intriguing ways thanks to the array of brushing and polishing on the surfaces and facets of the bracelet links, The alternative to this bracelet is a leather strap color-coordinated with the dial: blue with red stitching for the white-dial model, or brown with yellow stitching, currently the only option for the Butterscotch-dial edition. The straps culminate in steel pin buckles emblazoned with Bulova's tuning-fork logo.

Bulova Jet Star Dial

The dial colors of these 50th anniversary Jet Stars are the same ones found on the first generation in 1973, here executed in a very avant-garde, vibrant fashion. The two unlimited models feature a smoked red dial that Bulova calls “Merlot,” paired with a steel case and bracelet; and a brown degradé “Butterscotch” dial, matched up with a gold-PVD case and a perforated brown leather strap with yellow contrast stitching. The dial of the third model, a limited edition of 7,300 pieces, is evocative of the most “patriotic” of the original Jet Stars, which were released — some of a certain age may recall — just a few years before the U.S.A.’s bicentennial celebration in 1975. These models’ bright white, brushed dials have blue accents and red hands and markers, and they are the only ones that are delivered with both a steel bracelet and an additional blue strap. 

Geometrical shapes are plentiful on the dials, with the hour and minute hands taking the form of thin, partially hollowed-out batons and accompanied by a very fine sweeping seconds hand. The hour positions are delineated by rectangular markers similar in style to the main hands, with the same carved-out centers. On the Butterscotch and Merlot dials, several of these markers culminate, at their ends facing the center, with additional rectangles oriented in the opposite direction, effectively creating inverted letter “T’s” at the non-cardinal hours. It’s quirky, but probably not too jarring for most. At 3 o’clock, the hour marker gives way to a date window with a faceted frame. Curiously, Bulova chose not to re-create the day-date display of the earlier model, even though it would have added to the historical accuracy. The dots that accompany those rather chunky hour markers, along with the hands, are all coated with Super-LumiNova for an understated but legible glow in dark conditions.

Precisionist Movement

Whereas the 1970s Jet Star models contained Swiss automatic movements, the new ones contain the three-handed Precisionist Caliber P102. The Precisionist movement, which made its debut in 2010 inside a watch of the same name, was designed to be “the world’s most accurate quartz watch with a continuously sweeping seconds hand.” Like Bulova’s historic Accutron movement — which debuted in 1960 and eventually spawned its own line of watches — the Precisionist is used exclusively in Bulova watches and represents a quantum leap in electronic timekeeping technology.

The movement has an oscillator that vibrates at 262,144 times per second, eight times as fast as a standard quartz crystal, which equates to a precision of +/- 10 seconds per year. (This lightning-quick frequency is touted on the dial, above, right above the 6 o’clock marker.) The oscillator has three prongs instead of the standard two and functions as a “torsional resonator,” meaning that instead of vibrating back and forth like a standard quartz-watch oscillator, the prongs twist like the strings of an electric guitar. Unlike other high-precision watches that rely on external time signals, like atomic clocks, or need to be recalibrated after a battery change, Precisionist watches use easily replaceable lithium ion batteries like those in other quartz timepieces. As explained in further detail in this article, Bulova uses the Precisionist in some of its most enthusiast-targeted, vintage-inspired collections, like the Lunar Pilot and the recently relaunched Super Seville, in addition to these Jet Star editions. 

Pricing and Final Thoughts

Bulova has long been known for its value propositions and the Jet Star models are no exception. Both the steel-cased, Merlot-dial model on bracelet, and the gold-PVD-cased, Butterscotch-dial edition on leather, are priced at $650, while the red-white-and-blue-themed limited edition, with both bracelet and strap included, coming in just $100 more, at $750. Shortly on the heels of these original three, Bulova introduced another Jet Star edition in collaboration with watch-enthusiast community Complecto with a gradient silver-gray dial (not pictured here). Beyond that, there has been no additions as of this writing to the Bulova Jet Star collection despite the mostly very warm reception it has received from the enthusiast community and the watch media. However, perhaps we need look no further than the original Bulova Lunar Pilot from 2016 to remind us that a cult-classic anniversary edition can very quickly become a pillar of the brand’s portfolio. The Jet Star is not there yet, but a strong foundation has very likely been laid. You can learn more at bulova.com