Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm Review: The Best Octo Yet?

Sometimes, a small change can make a big difference. In the case of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, that small change amounts to a mere 3mm. The Octo Finissimo has always been a famously svelte watch, but its highly angular case made for a rather unique on-wrist experience, and at 40mm in both length and width, that experience wasn’t for everyone. With a new 37mm form factor, that equation changes: the watch opens up to a new market of people, and it manages to do so without compromising the Italian sprezzatura design DNA. A small change indeed, but one that was no small feat, requiring an entirely new movement from Bulgari to pull off. 

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm

Bulgari first introduced the Octo Finissimo, an extra-thin version of the existing Octo in 2014. The watch was released under the purview of Guido Terreni (now CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier), and it was an instant talking point thanks to its highly modern design and ultra-thin dimensions. It was even released alongside a record-breaking ultra-thin tourbillon to underscore Bulgari’s handiwork in developing and producing such thin movements. The Octo Finissimo was ahead of its time in many ways, and has remained so with the expansion of the collection to include a variety of complications and exotic materials. The base design has proven to be surprisingly versatile, but we’ve never seen a smaller base size for the case until now. 

Any attempt to place the Octo Finissimo within the broader landscape of luxury sport watches will feel a bit futile. This is a watch that’s lived outside of any typical genre tropes since it was introduced, and stepping back further, the same could be said for much of Bulgari’s watch portfolio. From the Serpenti to the Bulgari Bulgari, these are watches that make a statement through their designs, each of which is instantly recognizable from across the room. The Octo Finissimo brings a measure of mass appeal to this line of thinking, and with the 37mm option now on the table, it further expands its purview.

Key Details

The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo in 37mm is being released in satin yellow gold, and classic sandblasted titanium, just like the original. The design will be instantly familiar, with nested geographic forms coming together at hard angles to form the highly dynamic case and bracelet, and the whole thing remains impressively thin at just 6.45mm tall. It’s everything you love about the Octo Finissimo, just a touch smaller. If 37mm sounds a little too small for you, keep in mind that this case boasts a unique footprint, with material in places you wouldn’t generally expect to find it in more traditional cases, meaning it will wear closer to a 40mm, classically styled case. 

This all comes together in a monochromatic palette of grey, bead-blasted titanium, and a grey dial with black accents. Towering numerals appear at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions, rendered in Bulgari’s typical Finissimo typeface, with bar indexes appearing in between. As with the larger variations, a subsidiary seconds display appears at 7 o’clock, throwing the symmetry off enough to be visually interesting. A set of black hands tracks the time, bringing together a bold, confident dial design. 

If you opt for the full yellow-gold option, you’ll find a fully tone-on-tone design, with the hands and indices all rendered in yellow gold, differentiated only by their texture. Further, the dial boasts a vertical brush to match the texture found on the case and bracelet. As a whole, it’s a decadent experience that sets aside things like legibility to create a more luxurious experience. 

Case And Wear

Bulgari is using a scaled-down version of the flat link bracelet for this reference, which drapes evenly around the wrist thanks to the tight articulation. There is a flat butterfly clasp that keeps a clean appearance, though there is no micro-adjust mechanism built in, so you’ll need to make sure it’s sized correctly as is. A quick-adjust system would be welcome here, but it would come at the cost of added bulk. Hopefully, Bulgari can engineer a solution for future iterations that doesn’t compromise the low-profile nature of the design. 

On the wrist, the 37mm sizing makes a notable difference for everyday wearability. Of course, the 40mm option remains available as well, so buyers will have options. The case and bracelet are still sharp and angular, and you will still notice that on the wrist, as there isn’t a single curve to be found. It’s a structure that takes a little getting used to in terms of how you move your wrist around with the watch on, but make no mistake: this is a sublime platform on the wrist. It’s thin, small(ish), and exceptionally light. 

The Movement

To bring this design to life in 37mm, Bulgari developed a new ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic movement, the BVF 100, which measures a mere 2.35mm in thickness. The plates of the movement receive a côtes de Genève finishing pattern that emanates from the balance, with polished and chamfered edges throughout. It’s a striking design, and one that’s well executed, even if there’s not much in the way of depth or contrast. The movement boasts an impressive 72 hours of power reserve (3Hz), meaning there seems to be very little in the way of sacrifices being made for such a thin package. 

Final Thoughts

The market for great integrated-bracelet sport watches is vast these days, and unfortunately, becoming more homogeneous. The Octo Finissimo continues to stand in stark contrast to other watches in this category, and with the addition of a 37mm option, it’s now more usable than ever. This is the variation we’ve been waiting for, and it is worth it. This will undoubtedly be the first of a family to feature this size, with any number of materials and complications en route. As is, the time-only Octo Finissimo at 37mm will start at $16,600 in titanium and rise to $48,300 in yellow gold.

For more information, visit the brand's website here.